Just an FYI for everyone - I have been referencing a mix of historical photos, museum displays, and a few other modellers builds, so my build is not exact to one specific historical example but more of a general representation of history. Also, I claim artistic prerogative and made a significant deviation in the markings by adding the national flag's astrolabe coat of arms to the fuselage sides just forward of the cockpit. There are no indications this was ever done but that area of the model was relatively devoid of markings and I thought it would look great.
Rui, You bring up a good point about the hobby. I think that most modelers (at least here on SCM) attempt varying degrees of historical accuracy, as I think that partially draws us into the hobby. I do believe that there is a strong amount of artistry involved in the hobby, and as an artist, we are afforded an artistic license. So if one wants to paint a Mustang black with golden lighting bolts, then why not? It would probably look nice, and be fun for us to watch. Your Hurricane looks nice and would be proud to display on anyone's shelf or cabinet.
Really a great job, both from a technical point of view and from an artistic point of view!!!
...E poi le insegne portoghesi sono fantastiche!!!
Hi Rui. Great finish and excellent markings and scheme. If mine comes out anywhere near this good I'll be a happy chap 👍
Thanks guys. I started the weathering last night and hopefully not muck it up too much. I mean I want to muck it up and give it some wear and tear but not like my fist kit which ended up looking like it belonged in an aircraft graveyard 😆
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I definitely agree that it's the varnish, I think you are very lucky because it is an interesting effect! Imagine if it was white splotches instead!
Thank you for the kind words. Things have slowed a bit on the Tiffie because I decided foolishly to scatchbuild the rockets and rails, so 8 parts from the box have become 64 tiny pieces! But I'm nearly there and will post pics soon. But even OOB, it can built to a very nice model and there are plenty of very nice OOB builds of it here on SCM.
The effect isn't as bad at all. Some try to achieve this with oil paints for years. 🙂
Some even don't touch the oil paints 😉
July 5, 2021
Looks like the issue is fixed! 🙂
I will upload the rest of the photos
I think it's time to stop fussing with it and declare the project finished. I have uploaded the remainder of the photos; wish they were better, but my camera autofocus is off. Anyway, thanks for all the great comments and encouragment.
Lovely, looks grand in the sun.
Reminds me I need to go back to my mottling one day.
Looks like the boxart - mission accomplished!
July 4, 2021
July 2, 2021
Hello again. Just wondering if anyone had this issue? Or how do I contact the admins?
I can confirm this problem. I think you have to write to @scalemates
send it to feature request, i believe it is also used for bugs
Thanks guys. I'll try the feature request route and see what's up.
to be honest, i think i have seen it there already.
I've had this behaviour. After a few days of no change, I went searching for a way to report bugs. Then I decided I'd add a screen cap to the bug report, but couldn't then repeat the behaviour. 🙁
I now see converted prices again... thanks SC
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Arrived today in the post! I really like the Sd.Kfz series of armoured cars. For the period they were so advance looking. Almost science fiction like.
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Also, I gather I can use Future/Pledge to seal the whole kit and protect the paintwork, but once it's dry, can I do decals over top, then seal again, then do weathering like the panel liner rub off technique. or the soft pastel smudge/sludge technique.
Yeah, Future/Pledge should be a thin enough liquid that can be sprayed straight. I would recommend a dedicated gloss product if you can afford it, though. I used to use Pledge when starting out but I've since switched to Mr Hobby Super Clear III (thinned with Mr Hobby Self Levelling Thinner) and the difference is beyond night and day, and for me, fool proof to use.
So, the general rule would be - gloss before decalling, gloss after decalling to seal in the decals. In terms of panel liners/washes, you should really be applying those over a gloss surface too. If you try to apply them over a matt surface they will just seep into the paint permanently and be very hard to control.
I find it very helpful, if not necessary, to write down all my steps beforehand and then work out the logical order I should be doing them. Just to make sure you don't put down a matt varnish or something before you've done a task which required a gloss surface - which I definitely did once!
I agree, Mr Hobby Super Clear III is very good.
June 11, 2021
Academy/Minicraft Focke-Wulf Fw 190A-8 III./JG 54 | Album by GrenadeBait (1:72)
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Love the pic #37. Really brave choice for a return to the hobby, though I love these vintage kits. You'd better pick the new Airfix Fresco to enjoy the building next time 😉
Thanks Lukasz. My first kit was that Lindberg Do 335. Not a great kit but I was doing well with it and then disaster struck when the flat varnish I used reacted with the paint. I got a little discourage and decided to try this kit. I learned a lot. I do have my eye on that new Airfix Fresco but recently it became hard to find. Anyway, I'm working through my duplicate kits in my stash and the next one might be a Starfighter in Canadian livery.
Looks good, Rui! Nice NMF, what did you use? When you said there was a lot of oversized rivets, you weren't kidding...
Airfix released rebox recently (with Polish silver-blue livery) which might explain the availability issues
Thanks Gordon. I used Vallejo Air Aluminium and Dark Aluminium. First time using Vallejo paints. The metal ended up looking textured which didn't show in my test sprays so I think it was the Stynylrez white primer.
Nice result with an old kit.
I had this kit and several others from KP in my stash. I sold them all. Instead I have build the Airfix and Hasegawa Mig-17. More fun.
Only brave men or women are able to build the old KP kits 🙂
Thank Johan, I figured that if I can do a half decent job on a old difficult kit like this, then I should be able to a reasonably good job on a modern quality kit.
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