I did some more work on the cent in the meantime, since there has been a lot more hobby time recently...
Did a dark brown pinwash and tried my hand at chipping the Nightshift way. First layer on the hull is down, I tried to keep it restrained. Tried. In some places it went overboard, I hope it will look okay with the dark grey filling in the large spots, and some will be hidden by stowage.
I tried first with a cheap size 0 kolinsky brush... The winsor and Newton series 7 size 000 made a huge difference.
The following dusting with the characteristic red brown Vietnam earth will tone it down a lot. I hope.
To do: tracks, tow cables and exhausts.
3. May, 09:48
Kerry COX Fond memories of being able to stroll around the work pits at Kapyong Barracks in Puckapunyal where these dust ladened goliaths came after a hard day on the range. !!!
You have captured that feel and sense of 'down in the dirt' beautifully.
All the photos I took while I was filling in time at 'Area Command' at Puckapunyal, waiting for my course at the School of Military Engineering at Casula to arrive have sadly been destroyed by my mum as she faded into oldtymers disease, depicting all the Centurions of the 1St Armoured and 4/19 Prince of Wales Light Horse Regt Scarasin and Saladin armoured cars.
Otherwise, I would have had a great collection of reference material not many would have had access too, published here for all to enjoy.
But you have done the boys of the 1St armoured a great service by depicting this beast as it was before the Leopards arrived.
The road wheel chipping. ??? Perfect. !!
3. May, 10:00
Rui S Looking very good.
I like your scratch work and paintjob
3. May, 11:35
Rene Scheiblich Thanks mates! Glad you like it so far.
I might have got a little bit carried away with the chipping though and hope the dust and dried mud will tone it down. The engine deck will be a bit cluttered, so no worries there.
While working I noticed that I mounted a chipped roadwheel as spare. So I painted the contact surface dark grey as a base for slightly rusty steel.
Don't worry Kerry, no rust will be on the moving parts in the end
I'm quite happy with the base coat of green and the effect of the oils and filter too Kerry! Adds a bunch of work to the paint job but it pays off.
I think I'll skip the Leopard and go right up to the Abrams. Stashed an appropriate kit from Dragon already Scott set me up with very appetizing reference pictures of these beasts and the australian three tone camo looks really good
Bart Goesaert Nice work, what do you use for scribing? I prefer a thick needle (I prefer the Excell one). To deepen the lines (to keep em while sanding for example) I simply follow the contour, but only after a few passes (without applying pressure), you'll feel that you get some bite. For new lines In once received the tip to start a line at both ends, so not to stop in the corner, but start in one corner till a bit from the end, and then the other corner to connect them. Thus you avoid overshooting the corners... When it's deel enough, slightly sand the surface, and clean the dust either by scribing again of with tamiya extra think, which dissolves the last bits.
Second best scriber to me is the one from bare metal foil, but only for straight lines AND removing parts...
20. August 2018, 05:13
Rene Scheiblich Thanks mates! Still quite a bit of work to be done on this one. I hope the Dragon one won't be quite as bad, considering there are engines to fit as well...
I have used no specific tool, just a medium thick needle with a good point in my pinvise. It was quite fiddly work, I actually might get me proper tools for scribing when the next plane hits the bench. I do feel like the old 1:32 Bf109 from Hasegawa could use some work
Rene Scheiblich Thank you Martin! All the filling and sanding has definitely paid off if I might say so myself. Tedious dirty work, but those gaps were too horrible to ignore or drink away
Today I'll clean her up a bit and start spraying the underside RLM76 if time allows.
21. August 2018, 03:25
Rene Scheiblich Underside and tail sprayed with the MRP RLM76, after having to change the needle in my Badger 150... Spat all over the place. Somehow I managed to bump the point into something...
28. August 2018, 19:59
Rene Scheiblich Slowly progressing. Parts for gearbay and landing gear prepared.
Rene Scheiblich Finally continued painting, RLM82 went down without any troubles. Masked and ready for RLM81, and after that I'm in for a repaint of the underside, the murky water is the water I used for sanding out lots of faults.
Airbrushing a plane is not as easy as I thought it'd be and I had to rethink my painting order to make masking easier.
The blue 3M vinyl tape is very handy on curved surfaces where the Tamiya Tape wouldn't follow a specific line without getting wrinkled in a few places.
Oh, and random primed Centurion tracks in the background.
Johan Perremans Working on one right now, converting it to a T-54A(M). Nice kit, not as simplistic as Tamiya's T-55, but not as complex as Miniart's series.
15. January 2018, 20:40
Rene Scheiblich Yep, Takom did a nice job there imho. Only the fuel lines were a bit fiddly to get to sit right. Otherwise it's a nice oob kit with plenty of room to get some detailwork done.
16. January 2018, 04:25
Johan Perremans You are building it as Type 59, no?
In that case: DO NOT clip the front plate corners as indicated in the instructions! Type 59 has a square plate. Only clip If you are building an T-54!
16. January 2018, 05:57
Rene Scheiblich Which version did have the square lower front plate? Latter ones? [img1] [img2]
In these photographs they look like they're depicted in the manual. I took it as proof to cut and sand...
Would be annoying to have to fit some sheet again
16. January 2018, 17:11
Johan Perremans WOOPS! I am so sorry, it is the Type 69 that has the square plate