Haha, that's quite a novel you worte there
OK, first your brush paint job looks really good!
-Concerning the primer, you do not need necessarily one! If you did not use putty or had some massive scratch building going on you are good to go without it. Just make sure the surface of the model is 1. abradet/roughened (not too smooth) i personally use Mirka Mirlon Ultrafine pads. You also can use fine sanding paper, but with these pads you get better into the corners 2. de-greased (very important!) while building fat ant sweat fom your fingers (nothing personal, it is human nature!
) accumulates on the surface, it is deadly for paint adhesion. You can use plain alcohol or anti silicone degreaser.
-IF you use a primer make sure you use colours of the same brand/same composition! It may happen that when you use a water based/acrylic primer and then paint with enamel paint the paint wil dissolve/attack the primer and the surface will go all wrinkly. Same goes for painting colurs. Don't go with enamel/laquer over acrylic/water based! It can go right, but it can also go horribly wrong. Other way round is mostly not that problematic.
-I think i know your "painting white" problem, i remember the missles looking like shit when i hand painted them with revell 05
. I dont paintbrush white anymore, just very small details. Use an airbrush and make several thin coats. If you have a double action airbrush, go close on the part...and spray it very thin, almost a dry mist, if it is getting wet blow just air until it dries then go on with the white mist until you get the "whiteness" you desire. Vallejo model air is the brand of choice in this case.
-You listed several paint brands and qualities you use. They have very different properties and behave very differently! It can become confusing especially for a beginner. Try to focus on a specific brand of paints, learn how they work and behave in your climatic conditions and figure out which works for you the best. Also what i learned: different paints are good for different puposes. In my case it is: Tamiya for airbrushing big surfaces, there is just nothing better IMHO. Vallejo model air for airbrushing small stuff (cockpits, missles, wheels etc), Revell enamels for drybrushing and painting details.
-Maskol: I personally use it VERY rarely. Mostly for the canopy on airplanes. Sharp edges with masking tape, the unmasked surface with Maskol. Sometimes the inner side of the canopy too. Really, it depends what you want to do with it. I wouldn't use it for camouflage patterns on airplanes, because the paint edges tend to become cracked and unclean if you pull it off. Besides it is just a big mess. Masking in general, for soft and curvy camouflage patterns (like on russian planes i recommend the "blu tack" masking technique. You'll find some tutorials on youtube. For straight patterns you use masking tape.
-Clearcote: I prefer enamel clearcotes myself. Revell, Humbrol, Model Master. If it goes white you make it MUCH too thick. Rule of thumb with the finishing clear cote: Dilute it a bit more and apply it VERY thin. I mean you spray just a thin mist from a distance and watch the model go flat gradually until you get the result you desire. Make a flat/semigloss mixture as the finishing coat on your airplanes, it looks great. FUTURE/floor shine is great before applying decals, but not as the finishing coat! it is too glossy.
Ok Marques, now I wrote quite a novel. I hope I could help. Again, those old KP kits are not really what you are looking for as a beginner. They are good for practice i guess..
5. July 2017, 12:03