Show 24 previous comments
22. August 2016 at 08:40:52
22. August 2016 at 09:04:58
Seems like you have it by the short and curlies now, looking good, can't wait to see her with a bit of colour. The gills look like there just engraved on the side of the fuselage when they should be open. Or do they give you parts for that area? Have you built a Dragon( Tri-Master ) Fw-190 and is this as troublesome as that kit.
23. August 2016 at 09:16:10
23. August 2016 at 12:09:26
Michael, the ''gills'' you are referring to, would they be open if the aircraft was parked? I'm not very familiar with the 190. That said, there is an option to open them and insert little photo etched pieces into them to simulate the open gill effect you describe. I've never built a 190 before, but I did just get the D-9 from Hobby Boss. In comparison it appears to be very clean and much more simple, like Hobby Boss used the Eduard kit as a lesson in what not to do. If I didn't already have a Stuka going, I would dive into it. I would think in short order I could get it to the point where I have the A-5.
23. August 2016 at 20:30:35
23. August 2016 at 22:20:12
Hi Derek, the "Gills" as far as I know are permanently open and never close. I've lost count on how many Butcher Birds I've built and all the kits I've built had the Gills molded on the side of the fuselage, and all my reference has shown that they don't move. So I would suggest that you use the PE to show them open. The purpose of the Gills is to let heat get away from the engine, as the fan at the front of the engine wasn't efficient enough. The prototype 190 had a much smaller opening at the front of the engine and when it was taken out for its maiden flight the engine caught on fire.
24. August 2016 at 00:10:44
Michael, that's interesting info. Thank you. I can say that I'm now more confused than before. When you mentioned it, I did some googling. I looked at about 4 "real" FW190A models on scale mates and wiki. They were all either museum displayed or what looked like a static display at an airshow. They all had those louvers closed. I felt pretty good about leaving them like that, until you said they're supposed to be open. I'll probably still leave them closed, either way. This model has been a a bit of a headache, and I'm just starting the real body work.
24. August 2016 at 05:38:41
24. August 2016 at 05:41:17
They all appear to be closed in that pic, for instance.
24. August 2016 at 05:41:52
Sorry for the confusion Derek. They varied in style on the early Fw's changing style a few times. It was on the A-5 they have a non moving louver, trust me it is supposed to be open but I respect your decision to leave them as they are. I have a few of these kits put away in my stash and was hoping it would be easier than the Dragon kit to build. Eduard should have followed Tamiya's way of doing the cowl as one piece.
24. August 2016 at 07:37:17
Those pictures above are supposedly of the A-5. They are closed, though.
24. August 2016 at 15:46:40
24. August 2016 at 18:30:35
Googling around for other pictures of the A-5 show plenty of images where those ''gills'' *seem* to be closed on the actual aircraft. Like I said, I don't have any real substantive knowledge of the 190, but from what I can tell these gills seem to be like cowl flaps on many other radial engine aircraft, in that they can be opened under certain conditions, typically those with the engine running at relatively low speed. Either way, I don't think it's an accuracy issue to leave them as molded in the closed position, though I might argue that if they are like cowl flaps, it would be *generally* incorrect to have them open in the parked configuration.
24. August 2016 at 18:32:06
25. August 2016 at 02:04:53
The "gills" are shutters that open and close to regulate the flow of cooling air over the engine.
26. August 2016 at 02:35:15
26. August 2016 at 03:27:37
On the A-2, A-3 & A-4 they were just slits in the side of the fuselage. From the A-5 they have the shutter, I never new that they moved open and closed on all the Fw-190's I've built Tri-Master, Dragon, Tamiya and Pro-Modeller they are all in the open position , and in the photos that I have there all open. I guess you learn something new everyday. Thanks for clearing that up Trude.
26. August 2016 at 04:13:35
Love that nose, and the shading on the underside looks great. Can't wait to see more colour.
27. August 2016 at 02:02:07
Thanks Michael. I hope to have the RLM 76 done tonight.
27. August 2016 at 02:45:28
Good to see you using home made masks, I do the same when I do my Fw's it gives you a nice tight feathered edge.
27. August 2016 at 15:45:05
Michael, blowing up the instructions as a camo mask is just too easy not to do.
27. August 2016 at 20:28:29
27. August 2016 at 22:12:12
27. August 2016 at 22:18:20
27. August 2016 at 23:40:24
Thank you. I will probably be able to start on the decals tonight.
27. August 2016 at 23:51:42
You've done a nice job with the decals. And thanks for the link very interesting.
28. August 2016 at 14:36:15
Thanks Michael. The decals are done on the wings/fuselage. Now, I just need to do all of the gear and antenna.
29. August 2016 at 05:59:41
29. August 2016 at 12:35:30
29. August 2016 at 15:17:36
Almost finished. I'm still getting some silvering like I did on Eduard's 109. That leads me to believe it's either something I'm doing, or something Eduard is doing. On my end, I bought new microsol/set. I had about 1/4 of a bottle of each left. Maybe it went bad (doubtful, but I don't know what the issue is).
31. August 2016 at 01:48:56
Looking good, didn't seem to take that long, wish I could build that quick.
31. August 2016 at 06:38:14
01. September 2016 at 14:02:38
01. September 2016 at 14:05:47
Thanks Gents. I hate that for the second kit in a row I have had some atypical silvering issues. The common element has been Eduard kits/decals (well, and me). Maybe I'm doing something unusual, but geeze...it's not terrible, but it kills some of my enthusiasm for the rest of the build to throw the final coat of flat on and to find that there is silvering. It hurts even more on this one, as I went out of my way to make sure everything was going down better than usual with Microsol/set. I didn't want a repeat of the 109, but I got it.
01. September 2016 at 22:55:58
It sure looks good to me. Sorry to hear about the decal problems. I had some minor issues with the decals on my P-51B, but got them sorted out. I have only to add the antenna wire and it will be finished. Pics soon.
01. September 2016 at 23:00:15
01. September 2016 at 23:01:16
Michael, I'm using Aqua gloss, same as I have for almost a year. That's why I'm perplexed. Nothing has changed in my process, at least nothing I can diagnose. The thing that is consistent is both are eduard kits and decals, but I've built a ton of eduard and haven't had trouble before.
02. September 2016 at 05:51:03
02. September 2016 at 05:51:17
I'd suggest to try the Daco Decal setting (normally I use medium, you also have soft and strong) ), only thing to keep in mind is that it can react/dissolve vallejo paint. I start with the painted layer, mostly even without a gloss coat, depends on the shininess of the paint. I tend to remove as much of the carrierfilm as possible. I make a base with a few drops of water on the model where the decal should go, then apply the decal and slide it in its place. With a wide flat brush I push the water from under the decal, from the middle to the outside till it's good. then again with the flat brush and a bit of decalsetting, I moisten the decal and apply some force so that it will fit in the raised/recessed details, it takes a few times till it is ok, but I prefer the slow way (see the top decals on my fouga build: Silenoz
there it wasn't possible to remove the carrierfilm)
02. September 2016 at 09:14:58
Thanks for the tips. I ordered a new batch of microset/sol, as the last two models that had issues with silvering were from those bottles. Maybe that is the problem? Who knows...but I'm getting rid of anything that could be the culprit. I'm still leaning heavily towards the issues being with the kit decals themselves.
02. September 2016 at 18:51:04
Add a comment » Spanjaard
take some big piece of old discarded model, paint it as usual, take some decals from your spare box, that worked ok before and some edudard decal (if any alternative left from the two previous problematic models) and set both decals exactly in the same way, if there is a difference in results, then is the decals.
it is just an idea, and it can give you at least some peace of mind. good luck
03. September 2016 at 17:25:54