Proper Panigale
Comments
15 5 August 2025, 22:04
6 August 2025, 13:11
George Williams
Some great work here, carbon fibre is very difficult to represent, decal or paint, I'm not sure.
George WilliamsSome great work here, carbon fibre is very difficult to represent, decal or paint, I'm not sure.
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6 August 2025, 13:26
Ade Hill Author
I've given up with the Tamiya sheets, that's for sure. I bought a bunch because they're cheap, but wasted much of them because they crease or split. One crease in a carbon decal and the illusion is broken. I've found an old Scale Motorsport sheet which I may try on it.
Ade Hill AuthorI've given up with the Tamiya sheets, that's for sure. I bought a bunch because they're cheap, but wasted much of them because they crease or split. One crease in a carbon decal and the illusion is broken. I've found an old Scale Motorsport sheet which I may try on it.
6 August 2025, 14:45
Alexander Grivonev
Was the kit fork too short or what? Also nice brake fluid reservoirs👍
Alexander GrivonevWas the kit fork too short or what? Also nice brake fluid reservoirs👍
6 August 2025, 14:56
Guido
As for the carbon fibre, your paint effort is quite good actually. After all, if you scale the weaving pattern down by 12, not much of the weaving wouldn't remain visible, would it.
Scale Motor Sport CF decals are s-u-p-e-r thin, so care needs to be taken otherwise they will also crack. Biggest challenge for me is to keep the surface underneath s-u-p-e-r clean. Any dust particles that get trapped underneath the decal will be visible afterwards and can ruin the visual effect somewhat.
Give 'm a try on a next project, while keeping this front fender as is - is what I would do. 😉
GuidoAs for the carbon fibre, your paint effort is quite good actually. After all, if you scale the weaving pattern down by 12, not much of the weaving wouldn't remain visible, would it.
Scale Motor Sport CF decals are s-u-p-e-r thin, so care needs to be taken otherwise they will also crack. Biggest challenge for me is to keep the surface underneath s-u-p-e-r clean. Any dust particles that get trapped underneath the decal will be visible afterwards and can ruin the visual effect somewhat.
Give 'm a try on a next project, while keeping this front fender as is - is what I would do. 😉
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6 August 2025, 15:11Ade Hill Author
Thanks, Guido. I've only used the SM decals once but got a very good result: conformed well and didn't crease.
Alexander, no, the kit fork is the right length as far as I'm aware. Why do you ask?
EDIT: I think I've just twigged what you mean. You're looking at where I've filled the recesses with plasticard behind the slots in the clamps. Opening up the slots (so that the colour shows through) means having to fill the space behind them.
Ade Hill AuthorThanks, Guido. I've only used the SM decals once but got a very good result: conformed well and didn't crease.
Alexander, no, the kit fork is the right length as far as I'm aware. Why do you ask?
EDIT: I think I've just twigged what you mean. You're looking at where I've filled the recesses with plasticard behind the slots in the clamps. Opening up the slots (so that the colour shows through) means having to fill the space behind them.
1
6 August 2025, 15:41Alexander Grivonev
The mudguard definitely looks doable concerning CF decals. A hair dryer and a lot of decal softener will take care of the bends and curves
Alexander GrivonevThe mudguard definitely looks doable concerning CF decals. A hair dryer and a lot of decal softener will take care of the bends and curves
11 August 2025, 09:56Ade Hill Author
Update. As this is isn't my first 1199 rodeo, I've been trying to track down the cause of a fit problem which I had with my first one – which had to be fixed [and not very cleanly] after assembly. I dry fitted the whole tail and it looked like it would happen again. But I think that, after a lot of trial and error trying to find the causes, this one will now fit snugly and not look like a bird with its beak open like the first one did.
Still pondering the carbon options. I've designed a mask and if my plotter can cut it, I'll give that a try.
Ade Hill AuthorUpdate. As this is isn't my first 1199 rodeo, I've been trying to track down the cause of a fit problem which I had with my first one – which had to be fixed [and not very cleanly] after assembly. I dry fitted the whole tail and it looked like it would happen again. But I think that, after a lot of trial and error trying to find the causes, this one will now fit snugly and not look like a bird with its beak open like the first one did.
Still pondering the carbon options. I've designed a mask and if my plotter can cut it, I'll give that a try.
1
12 August 2025, 10:01Ade Hill Author
Cockpit detailing now, and I'm after some tubing or other which looks like the marked part in photo 15. I'm thinking maybe someone will know the ideal thing.
Ade Hill AuthorCockpit detailing now, and I'm after some tubing or other which looks like the marked part in photo 15. I'm thinking maybe someone will know the ideal thing.
12 August 2025, 10:10
Spanjaard
if i were facing picture 15, I think I would take a wire, and wrap another thinner one around it. maybe use a soft one that you can be flatten. a bit of thinned putty may also help giving the right look
Spanjaardif i were facing picture 15, I think I would take a wire, and wrap another thinner one around it. maybe use a soft one that you can be flatten. a bit of thinned putty may also help giving the right look
12 August 2025, 10:11Alexander Grivonev
check this out
spotmodel.com/produc..ucts_id=55273#image2
or maybe this
Air Duct Hose Set (set of 8) (Model Factory Hiro P-965, No)
Spotmodel has a ton of good stuff, you'll just need the proper search prompts
Alexander Grivonevcheck this out
spotmodel.com/produc..ucts_id=55273#image2
or maybe this
Air Duct Hose Set (set of 8) (Model Factory Hiro P-965, No)
Spotmodel has a ton of good stuff, you'll just need the proper search prompts
12 August 2025, 10:18Ade Hill Author
Hi Alexander. The first one gives about the right sort of appearance, but it's too big at 3.3mm. Thanks for helping, though.
Ade Hill AuthorHi Alexander. The first one gives about the right sort of appearance, but it's too big at 3.3mm. Thanks for helping, though.
19 September 2025, 09:53Ade Hill Author
Back after a four-week photography trip, I haven't much spare time (catching up with business things) but I've now sorted the mudguard. It took four carefully cut pieces (two for where the pattern needs to switch on the sides, and two to deal with the compound curves) but I managed to get a Scale Motorsport decal to conform and look acceptable. Definitely better than Tamiya carbon. The top two were the worst, as they needed a curved edge of an exact radius and my effort to match the pattern wasn't 100% perfect. It has a utility gloss which now needs a rub down before the logo is added.
Ade Hill AuthorBack after a four-week photography trip, I haven't much spare time (catching up with business things) but I've now sorted the mudguard. It took four carefully cut pieces (two for where the pattern needs to switch on the sides, and two to deal with the compound curves) but I managed to get a Scale Motorsport decal to conform and look acceptable. Definitely better than Tamiya carbon. The top two were the worst, as they needed a curved edge of an exact radius and my effort to match the pattern wasn't 100% perfect. It has a utility gloss which now needs a rub down before the logo is added.
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Album info
This is a rare thing! You're actually getting a sneaky peak at my work-in-progress. That's only because it has had way too much work already and it's almost done, so I know that it won't now be abandoned or binned…
I always say never go back. I made one a few years ago in matte black, which was not good enough. So this is going to be glossy white and as near to spot-on as I can get it. During the many hours done so far, most of the components were repainted at least once. For a while, there was more stripping going on here than in Spearmint Rhino. 🙂
