1/6 Tamiya'K' CB-750 Candy red.
Ahhhhhhhh. ! The box art says it all. 🙂 🙂 👍
All trees tagged and ALL chrome that can get scratched as the sprus are chosen and replaced after items are removed have been given a protective covering of parrafilm 'M' to stop any scratch damage from being done.
Parrafilm has become my very best friend when it comes to versatility. Used for masking clear canopies right through to bulk protection of all easily scratched parts that need to be as pure as the factory produced them. 👍
Hail the film. 😉
Hail the film. 😉
But first. The most tedious job there is, and that is assembling the linked chain that is part of the 'upgrading' products for this size kit/kits.
The most fun you can have really. 🙂
Knowing that the kit will look the best it possibly can.
Knowing that the kit will look the best it possibly can.
Tedious because there is so much trimming of the excess plastic associated with each link part.
But surprisingly strong for what it's made of.
But surprisingly strong for what it's made of.
Because of the scale and not being made from metal like some Tamiya upgrade chain kits the links are not all that 'secure', so I chose to use a hot blade to gently melt the tip of each link to prevent the chain from falling apart.
The chain is easy to assemble, and patience and the total removal of ALL excess plastic burrs will go a long way to make the chore a whole lot easier.
I couldn't find any old Australian one cent coins, so this yank "Red Cent" will have to do, but thankfully, both are the same size.
This is the 'jig' that the chain is built in, and once you get one set right, the rest are a breeze. 👍 🙂
This is the 'tool' that comes with the trees of parts, used to press the lock links into place. Be gentle and make sure all the other yet to be secured links don't jump out of the jig when the links snap into place.
All the lock links have been secured with the aid of a hot, but not TOO hot blade. Just enough heat is needed to get the tips to 'yield' and keep every thing in place.
The links I have heat treated here are the ones above the yet to be secured lock pins in the lower half of the image..
OMG. The bloody seam lines were like the Berlin wall. ! Painfully obvious and a LOT of sanding and scraping to get th frame to a reasonable standard, taking in the fact that it's an OLD model, in fact, one of the first 1/6 kits Tamiya made. 🙁 🙁 🙁
First attempt at the silver base before the clear red was used. 🙁
Not happy with it and soon went back to my trusted friend, 'Model Master buffing metalizer'.
Then.........................the dust and crap in the air.
No matter how well prepared, the particals will find new paint jobs, no matter how cautious. 🙁
Not happy with it and soon went back to my trusted friend, 'Model Master buffing metalizer'.
Then.........................the dust and crap in the air.
No matter how well prepared, the particals will find new paint jobs, no matter how cautious. 🙁
Just crap. !
This was removed and the buffing metalizer was used.
The centre stand with spring went together as is was supposed to. 🙂
Dry fit, no glue until I have a perfect match for all joint surfaces. 😉
Now, for all that is called the 'engine' and all the extra bits to be removed. :-/
No 'scraping' of surfaces that will have glue applied, instead, using some decanted aerosol oven cleaner that was then painted on the areas where glue was to be used later. Such as the tappet cover points.
A lot of excess was removed to have the whole thing come out OK. !
The wet sump
Lots of rough edges that had to be corrected to have all surfaces fit and not look like a dog's breakfast. 🙁
So much air borne crap that spoiled the whole paint job.
Storing the items in what I hoped tobe a 'dust free' enclosure...................................no such bloody luck. 🙁
Storing the items in what I hoped tobe a 'dust free' enclosure...................................no such bloody luck. 🙁
This part turned out fine. Thankfully. !
The bath tub for the freshly painted items, using 'Odour free' turps.
This solvent does not destroy any part of the plastics, but just disolves the paint.
This solvent does not destroy any part of the plastics, but just disolves the paint.
With one small black speck adjaicent to the reflected light on the top, I lost it and decided to remove ALL the red clear.
Comments
1 31 May 2020, 04:30
Paul ReddmeisterI didn't know of this upgrade - would be good for mine. Is this kit still available?
31 May 2020, 07:35
René "Lord Bilbo" BartholemyI would have loved to see a 1 cent coin in picture 6... 👍
31 May 2020, 07:39
Kerry COXBilbo. Your wish is my command. 👍
Will an American one cent coin be the scale that can do the scale of the links justice. ?
And Paul, check this link out for the 1/6 scale models by Tamiya. 😉
dealsan.com/buy/tamiya-1-6
31 May 2020, 09:12
Kerry COXMunkey hoar, do you mean the link or what I have done so far. ??? hehehehehe 😉 👍
31 May 2020, 09:28
René "Lord Bilbo" BartholemyHey, I'm not bigoted towards foreign currencies...😉
Edit: the 1 cent 1886 "indian head" coin is worth much more than 1 cent though...
Edit 2: I'm quite impressed with you chain!
31 May 2020, 11:15
Kerry COXJohn D, Thank you my friend. 😉
I wish I could find a great silver paint that goes on thin and doesn't 'powder' up like it's billions of silver particles all trying to reach the surface. ! 🙁
I am seriously thinking of the AK Interactive 'true metal' wax paint from the tube that is buffable as you apply it. ! As I have to be sure that the Tamiya clear red I want to use, (Candy red) will hold on to it and not flake or chip off after time. :-/
3 attempts at getting the silver down but had to remove each attempt due to poor quality of the finish, wanting a high gloss with little paint but none I have tried have worked so far. The tungsten silver looked like a porcupine. !
If I use the testors buffing metalizer, the clear red from Tamiya goes all brittle and cracks and flakes after a while. !
He hehehehehe. 😉 Wish me luck. !
1 June 2020, 10:45
Kerry COXIs it a smooth high gloss finish. ? And the last thing I need is the 'orange peel effect' from paints that don't get time to 'lay down' like enamels. As the lacquer paints I have used by Tamiya dry way too fast and are not as smooth as I am used to. 🙁
Any advice in this area. ?
1 June 2020, 11:20
Valters OrlovskisYou should try Model Master Chrome Silver Enamel paint, it is really smooth with no silver particles visible. I've used it as base coat on some my bike models, looks great with Tamiya Acrylics over it.
1 June 2020, 13:45
Kerry COXValters, Thank you for the tip and I just so happen to have found in my paint locker some of the Model Masters silver you are referring to. 😉
As good as the testors (same mob) buffing metalizer aluminium plate. 🙂
Thanks again for all your help lads. 👍
1 June 2020, 13:50
Slavo HazuchaYou could tie down the great wolf Fenrir with this kind of chain...😉
Looking great as a model 👍 - for the motorcycle... well, it definitely does seem to be one! 🙂
1 June 2020, 14:30
Album info
The honda four CB-750 went through many changes, especially with the cosmetic look and some changes in the display /dash lights, and the first bike was designated the 'K' series, followed by the changes denoted as K1, K2, K3 and so on, but the first production model (K) had all the warning lights mounted in the tacho and speedo instruments and these were mounted on following bikes with the lights on a small display unit that was part of the handlebar mount set up.
