The honda four CB-750 went through many changes, especially with the cosmetic look and some changes in the display /dash lights, and the first bike was designated the 'K' series, followed by the changes denoted as K1, K2, K3 and so on, but the first production model (K) had all the warning lights mounted in the tacho and speedo instruments and these were mounted on following bikes with the lights on a small display unit that was part of the handlebar mount set up.
All trees tagged and ALL chrome that can get scratched as the sprus are chosen and replaced after items are removed have been given a protective covering of parrafilm 'M' to stop any scratch damage from being done.
Parrafilm has become my very best friend when it comes to versatility. Used for masking clear canopies right through to bulk protection of all easily scratched parts that need to be as pure as the factory produced them.
Hail the film.
Because of the scale and not being made from metal like some Tamiya upgrade chain kits the links are not all that 'secure', so I chose to use a hot blade to gently melt the tip of each link to prevent the chain from falling apart.
This is the 'tool' that comes with the trees of parts, used to press the lock links into place. Be gentle and make sure all the other yet to be secured links don't jump out of the jig when the links snap into place.
OMG. The bloody seam lines were like the Berlin wall. ! Painfully obvious and a LOT of sanding and scraping to get th frame to a reasonable standard, taking in the fact that it's an OLD model, in fact, one of the first 1/6 kits Tamiya made.
First attempt at the silver base before the clear red was used.
Not happy with it and soon went back to my trusted friend, 'Model Master buffing metalizer'.
Then.........................the dust and crap in the air.
No matter how well prepared, the particals will find new paint jobs, no matter how cautious.
No 'scraping' of surfaces that will have glue applied, instead, using some decanted aerosol oven cleaner that was then painted on the areas where glue was to be used later. Such as the tappet cover points.
Kerry COX John D, Thank you my friend.
I wish I could find a great silver paint that goes on thin and doesn't 'powder' up like it's billions of silver particles all trying to reach the surface. !
I am seriously thinking of the AK Interactive 'true metal' wax paint from the tube that is buffable as you apply it. ! As I have to be sure that the Tamiya clear red I want to use, (Candy red) will hold on to it and not flake or chip off after time. :-/
3 attempts at getting the silver down but had to remove each attempt due to poor quality of the finish, wanting a high gloss with little paint but none I have tried have worked so far. The tungsten silver looked like a porcupine. !
If I use the testors buffing metalizer, the clear red from Tamiya goes all brittle and cracks and flakes after a while. !
He hehehehehe. Wish me luck. !
1. June, 10:45
Kerry COX Is it a smooth high gloss finish. ? And the last thing I need is the 'orange peel effect' from paints that don't get time to 'lay down' like enamels. As the lacquer paints I have used by Tamiya dry way too fast and are not as smooth as I am used to.
Any advice in this area. ?
1. June, 11:20
Kerry COX I will do that JD. Give anything a go once. Cheers and thank you.
Valters Orlovskis You should try Model Master Chrome Silver Enamel paint, it is really smooth with no silver particles visible. I've used it as base coat on some my bike models, looks great with Tamiya Acrylics over it.
1. June, 13:45
Kerry COX Valters, Thank you for the tip and I just so happen to have found in my paint locker some of the Model Masters silver you are referring to.
As good as the testors (same mob) buffing metalizer aluminium plate.
Thanks again for all your help lads.
1. June, 13:50
Slavo Hazucha You could tie down the great wolf Fenrir with this kind of chain...
Looking great as a model - for the motorcycle... well, it definitely does seem to be one!