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1:32 Sikorski MH-53E Sea Dragon - scratch/3D printed
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This album is attached to project Sikorski H-53E Sea Dragon - scratch/3D printed.
1. April at 07:11:27 Share
Show 33 previous comments Holger Kranich
Harejasses, watt´n Trümmer! Dafür muß man schon Platz haben. Der Rotordurchmesser hat es in sich, wa?
1. April at 07:21:45
...kann man ja falten.
I need to see how this monster develops. Great idea!
1. April at 07:25:22
Rund 75cm Rotordurchmesser... Das Ding wird aber tatsächlich gefaltet!
1. April at 07:52:34
The plastic giant! I'm definitely in!
1. April at 09:18:47
Pff... looking good... must have been a helluva time to make the surface as smooth as it is... but must admit... striking job on that. Good luck with this "BUFF" (I'm aware it is used for the B-52, thought it would be applicable here too...)
1. April at 10:32:47
I think we're gonna need a bigger printer
1. April at 12:17:39
hmm.... seems to be an Ender
Do you have the stl ? Not for printing here, just to see :-p
2. April at 17:00:35
Impressive! can you say how long it take to print the body?
2. April at 17:40:55
It's a CR-10S. Of course I have the STLs - would you like to see some screen shots, Florent? Andreas, printing of the entire fuselage took around 100 hours.
3. April at 07:07:20
wow, that is extreme! thanks for the information and all the best for this project!
3. April at 14:53:45
Who'd thunk it! I've been debateing getting a 3D printer. This convinced me. Now to convince the CFO.
3. April at 16:06:50
Sincere praise and exaggerated flattery works pretty well...
4. April at 13:12:28
I hope you are printing those sponsons hollow! Otherwise you wouldn't need any chains to tie the helo to a deck in a diorama. No way that it is going to be blown off the deck!
4. April at 13:29:05
@Mike, and the Ender 3, ~150€, does a great job. With some modifications (~150 more €) I have wonderfull (and fast, for such a printer) results...
8. April at 12:15:40
Mike, the material for an FDM printer is rather cheap - depends a bit on which material you want to use of course. I usually create my 3D files myself or I modify existing files to make them printable.
8. April at 12:22:12
Thanks Ben. Do you have a link at all describing the different materials available ? And what file format do you need? I use the Blender 3D app (brilliant and free!) a fair bit and was wondering if you can export for 3D printing. You probably can - its quite a versatile application. Thanks a lot.
8. April at 16:42:05
@Wim: I've installed a bmg clone extruder, new springs, new hotend (from hotends.fr), new fanduct, bl-touch-like (from hotends.fr too), glass from creality (including a second one for free, maybe a mistake from creality !), and X + Y belts tensioner (from aliexpress - metallic ones, not printed). The last one have been received yesterday. The print quality is not so far from a stock one, but it's always the same, and most, I print PLA at 100mm/s with the same quality as I did at 30 or 40mm/s. Wich is a great improvement, for me.
9. April at 03:05:44
Mike, I'm afraid I don't have such a link. You first have to decide which kind of printer (s) you want - FDM, SLA, DLP? It all depends on what you want to print. I have an Anycubic Photon DLP for smaller detailed parts and a Creality CR-10S FDM printer for large parts. You need STL files for 3D printing; it should be possible to export STL files with Blender. I also have Blender on my computer but I rarely use it as I find its user interface overly complex to be honest.
9. April at 07:36:50
There are quite a few new in-progress pics for all those who are interested!
19. June at 09:59:39
Agreed. Amazing amount of work that goes into your models
19. June at 12:29:39
Ben, I'm not up to par on 3D printing but why didn't you print in all those footsteps, panels and tie downs? Is that something that can not be achieved with the tan plastic the main body is made of?
19. June at 15:32:02
seems like two different materials and printer types, filament for the larger parts (and a larger resolution, more cleaning up to do), and I suppose a resin one for the smaller parts (very small resolution, less cleanup). this as a time and cost saver.
20. June at 14:52:25
Bart is right, that's one of the reasons - another on is the fact that the basic file is neither very detailed nor in high resolution. A highly detailed high res file would be overkill for my computer setup - it really serves as a base for additional detailing and refinement by hand.
24. June at 06:57:36
OK, thank you very much for the explanation. 3D printing is still something new to me.
24. June at 13:45:00
Ben can I ask what product are you using to get the smooth finish over the 3d printed body?
24. June at 14:48:15
Großartige Ideen für die Umsetzung kleiner Details! Bin sehr gespannt wie's weiter geht,,
Übrigens: kannst du mir einen kompletten japanischen Seaking drucken? Spart mir eine ganze Menge Zeit
24. June at 17:19:23
I use simple two-component automotive body filler, followed by automotive spray primer to smoothen the surface. A lot of sanding is involved as well!
Bernhard, ein Seaking ist auf jeden Fall auch auf meiner Liste. Sobald ich die entsprechenden Daten habe, kannst du gerne die entsprechenden Teile bekommen - das wird allerdings nicht in nächster Zukunft der Fall sein...
25. June at 08:53:02
Add comment » Christian W
Das wird ein riesen Modell! Verrückt
25. June at 09:22:58
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