Thomas Kolb Along with my relatively simple builds, let's bring in another project of a slightly... hm, larger character: the mighty An-26. Well, that's large at least for me, mediocre for other people building 1/72 Iljushin airliners...
Thomas Kolb @Ben, yes, it is clearly a difficult kit with some pretty bad molding. I can already see that a lot of time will be spent cleaning up parts and removing nasty join lines.
@Łukasz, now that is a good question! Not sure yet... This model also clearly needs a base of some kind to stand on, so I will try to make a (very simple) diorama or something.
4 June 2020, 06:10
Oleg Bogolei nice start of the long way) i'll be watching)
4 June 2020, 06:53
Thomas Kolb Front and back fuselage parts assembled - these large parts are warped like crazy, so I think it will be easier to force everything together later.
8 June 2020, 16:20
Cuajete An unusual and beauty model... Good news!! Following.
8 June 2020, 19:05
Géza Szekér You're really persistent! You will have more Hungarian planes than the Hungarian Air Force! Good job!
8 June 2020, 19:17
Thomas Kolb @Cuajete, you are welcome to take a comfy chair, - 'tis is going to take time...
@Géza, well, that is the general idea - at least the really cool ones, like the Ancsa!
Daniel K It's one of those kits that looks like would be a pain to build, but worth it for the end result. Looking great so far. Will be following.
11 June 2020, 09:14
Thomas Kolb Alexander & Daniel, yes you are probably right - this is indeed a very difficult kit to build, but it can be made into a beautiful replica. I just hope I am worthy!
11 June 2020, 15:23
Mirko Römer Looks challenging but will be a stunning model/banana. All the best!
11 June 2020, 15:24
Ben M nice minions! I will try painting with a needle next time I'm doing something tiny.
11 June 2020, 15:31
Thomas Kolb Ben, thanks! It is actually an old bent airbrush needle with the very tip broken off to form a kind of "prong" to hold a microscopic drop of paint. It works great also for instrument panels, but you need a lot of light to see what you are doing!
11 June 2020, 16:19
Ben M I have such a bent airbrush needle. In the spirit of sharing helpful needle tips, I've cut the end off a sewing needle to leave half of the "eye" so it's shaped like a little fork. I use a pin vise for a handle and use this to apply thin CA precisely for photoetch. The "eye" holds the glue with surface tension and allows me to place it exactly when I need it. When it gets clogged up with dry glue, I just hold it over a lighter to burn the dried CA off.
11 June 2020, 16:55
Andy Ball @Ben M...cracking tip...I'll try this as I have a similar challenge with too much CA on PE
Thomas Kolb Łukasz, yeah, I was thinking of that first, but I would need to do a lot of very precise cutting on that large red/white/green decal to fit around windows and stuff and I don't think I will be able to pull it off.
11 June 2020, 22:02
Andy Ball Ha! Just re-read your comment....have you got "Soviet 1:72nd size-envy"? ????
11 June 2020, 22:16
Thomas Kolb Andy, you know: bigger and shinier is always better!
12 June 2020, 08:14
Thomas Kolb Just got into a pickle... the round transparent windows are too small for the round apertures in the fuselage they should fit into... about 1 mm difference. I am not sure how to get around this yet... I tried using liquid Kristal Klear, but the window openings are too big for it to work. Fill the openings and use paint or decals? Using transparent plastic sheets to fabricate new windows? Any ideas?
wilky Can you run a piece of tape behind the window holes.
Sit the clear parts in the middle of the holes and use PVA glue to secure them
16 June 2020, 23:23
Łukasz Gliński I'd either follow Ben's proposal or glue a bigger transparent sheet on the inside of the fuselage, mask it with blutack (or sth similar) and fill with PVA/KristalKlear after painting (you have to use excess amount, as it will shrink while drying).
17 June 2020, 08:38
Łukasz Gliński Just a quick thought - maybe trying some transparent resin would help? Never seen or used one myself😉
17 June 2020, 10:29
Thomas Kolb Thank you gentlemen for your tips and ideas... the main problem is that since the ramp on the back will be open, the windows will be visible both from the outside AND the inside. Anyway, I carefully attached the round windows with thin styrene cement on one side and filled the remaining gaps on the other side with clear acrylic glue. It actually turned out pretty decent - after painting it should look quite acceptable.
17 June 2020, 14:56
Andy Ball a whacky thought.....have any local opticians got a semi-rigid contact lenses?.....could they be fashioned?....and they're (like mine) convex?.....(or concave depending on how you view them!)
17 June 2020, 15:39
Thomas Kolb Andy, that is actually a very cool idea! 🙂 However I think I got it figured out how to use the provided transparent window disks instead. I just cement them in place on one side with regular extra thin cement and then fill the gaps on the other side with clear acrylic glue (similar to Krystal Klear). Since the acrylic glue has pretty impressing gap-filling properties and dries almost perfectly transparent, it all actually turned out to be easier than I initially thought.
17 June 2020, 18:54
Skyhiker Really nice to see the love put into 1:72. I'm following. 🙂
17 June 2020, 19:20
Thomas Kolb Skywalker, thanks, you are welcome! Yes, 72 is a harsh mistress. Make one slip and you have a toy instead of a scale model.
17 June 2020, 19:56
Alec K This looks like a slog! Looking great, I'll take a seat.
27 June 2020, 14:20
Treehugger Ah nuts and bolts for nose weight, what a nice idea.
29 June 2020, 09:52
Andy Ball sounds more like you're stitching them together....
29 June 2020, 16:12
Thomas Kolb Andy, yes, the left and right fuselage halves don't seem to like each other much. But they actually line up quite nicely once you squeeze them together, you just need a lot of brute force.
Thomas Kolb Alexander, yes, that is the bottom front part of the vertical fin, molded to the fuselage sides. It seems to be a late change in the design as it is not at all described like that in the instructions. Not sure why Amodel did this since it creates an awful lot of work to blend it in. It would have been so much easier to have the entire fin molded as one separate piece.
3 July 2020, 09:01
Thomas Kolb BTW, I changed my mind and will probably use the special anniversary paintjob from 2004 on this model, or I think it will just be so incredibly dull and boring. It means that will need to do some decal cutting work around the navigator's window and the open door, but I think it should be manageable.
4 July 2020, 12:47
Alexander Grivonev I see you have a particular affinity to Hungarian AF, why is that?
4 July 2020, 13:08
Łukasz Gliński Good idea Thomas. Have you considered painting the additioal colours instead?
4 July 2020, 14:45
Thomas Kolb @Alexander, my wife is from Hungary, and I love the country, the culture, people, language, food and atmosphere. Also I think it is cool to work on a collection with a certain and clear theme. So my model collection is a mix of Hungarian and Swedish Air Force aircraft.
@Łukasz, yes, I actually did some tests on a scrap model, but there are some annoying thin white lines around the color bands which I just cannot seem to be able to mask off properly. The decals are really nice and I think I can get away with some small cuts. If I f*ck up, I can always revert to the regular 80's light gray scheme which I think looks quite attractive. The dark gray NATO scheme is just sooooo incredibly boring.
4 July 2020, 16:48
Łukasz Gliński Choice of Hungarian Ancsa serves you right😉 You should have gone for the late Polish one😉
4 July 2020, 17:29
Thomas Kolb Yep, TBH most of the Polish aircraft have way cooler camos. Should have married a Polish lady instead? 😉
4 July 2020, 19:30
Łukasz Gliński Not at all, but remember: Lengyel, magyar – két jó barát, együtt harcol, s issza borát 😛
4 July 2020, 19:51
Thomas Kolb Ha ha, that's a cool one, I will remember that! 🙂 🙂 🙂
4 July 2020, 19:55
Łukasz Gliński We all learn it (in Polish of course) as kids here. Thought the kids down there at Balaton do the same 🙂
4 July 2020, 19:59
Andy Ball Hungarian is one of the unique languages of Europe, as is Finnish I believe. Lovely progress, Thomas!
4 July 2020, 21:00
Thomas Kolb Andy, yes it sure is, and also ridiculously difficult to learn as an adult.
4 July 2020, 21:41
Géza Szekér On behalf of the Hungarians, thank you for your kind words! Köszönöm. „Polak, Węgier, dwa bratanki, i do szabli, i do szklanki."
5 July 2020, 17:59
Łukasz Gliński Hah! I knew they're familiar with it down there at the Hungarian Sea. However I'm still unable to pronounce and learn it in the Magyar version😉
For the English speakers, the sentence approximate meaning is: Pole and Hungarian brothers be, good for fight and good for party.
5 July 2020, 18:15
Thomas Kolb This evening I started with the engine pods - quite a lot of details needs to be fixed on these, such as the photo-etched exhaust pipes that I was dreading since day one. Frankly, I didn't expect that I would be able to roll them to a perfectly circular tube, but somehow I think I managed. Phew, let's not do that again in a hurry.
8 July 2020, 21:54
Thomas Kolb I just received my acrylic putty - this stuff is simply amazing for filling in tiny gaps, such as around wing roots. Just dab it on with a cocktail stick and wipe off the excess with a moist cotton swab. No sanding required - no lost details! I used it to fill in tiny gaps around the engine nacelles and the wings. Highly recommended!
Łukasz Gliński First time ever I can see someone recommending Wamod stuff 😄
Sounds like cheaper version of Perfect Plastic Putty
10 July 2020, 22:20
Andy Ball does it work on 50 year-old female faces too? [asking for a friend....]
10 July 2020, 22:27
Łukasz Gliński I have to test it - is it washable after drying? Perfect Putty is. No clue how the Britons made it but it's awesome 🙂
11 July 2020, 08:29
Thomas Kolb @Łukasz, given the cheap price I wasn't expecting much, but I was pleasantly surprised. Maybe it is not the same as Perfect Plastic Putty - never tried that so I cannot tell. A tip I got was to brush on a very thin layer of matt enamel varnish on top when dry. From there on it should be fairly solid.
@Andy, he he, one can try. If it goes wrong, your friend may have more time to spend on building models...
Thomas Kolb Finally got the outer wings on... I was worried that if I didn't add some reinforcing strips inside the wing structure, the wings might droop, but the butt join seems to work just fine. Next: the canopy and the ramp assembly and then it's time to mask off the windows before priming.
2 August 2020, 22:06
Andy Ball Great progress: funnily enough I was disposing of my contact lenses today and thought: "what could I repurpose these for?", ah an Antonov!
2 August 2020, 22:23
Thomas Kolb Primed! That's always a welcome progress when you start to get sick and tired of seeing all that filler and putty.
31 August 2020, 18:04
Juergen Klinglhuber great progress... 👍
I guess I check out some source for the primer you recommed.
31 August 2020, 19:24
Cuajete Good progress, Thomas.
Where can get the Ultimate Primer?
And how did you solve the fitting problems for the masks on the cockpit? Thanks.
31 August 2020, 19:52
Thomas Kolb Juergen & Cuajete, thanks! I buy the UMP primer from my local hobby shop, but you can also get it directly from the manufacturer's web shop:
It is an absolute dream to work with, both the gray and the glossy black. It covers completely with an exceptionally silky smooth surface and is super resilient. It is a bit thick so it needs at least a 0.4 needle and 30 PSI. And it cannot be thinned, or it will lose its magic properties.
Cuajete, I don't know if is the molded-on window frames that are incorrect or the masks are too small, but they do not match completely. I just placed the masks in the middle of the windows (you can see it clearly in picture 54). It (sort of) looks okay.
31 August 2020, 20:49
Andy Ball Thanks for the tip on the UMP Thomas, I too think I need to work with a good self-levelling primer. Tell me, have you compared it to Vallejo's grey or black primer?, I like the meticulous approach to this build!
31 August 2020, 21:37
Thomas Kolb Andy, I have had a few mishaps with Vallejo acrylics, so I haven't tried their primer. In the past I used Mr Surfacer (500, 1000 and 1500) and had some occasional problems with it not leveling out or rubbing off. The UMP hasn't let me down yet. But as I have mentioned a few times, there are some caveats.
Łukasz Gliński I can see the new project cover picture, yay! 👍
2 September 2020, 20:40
Erik De Smet You have already put a lot of work in detailing this model , Thomas, I will follow. Btw I got the Gpm hangar too. Looks very good.
9 September 2020, 17:41
Łukasz Gliński Props for props, they look really great 👍
9 September 2020, 19:49
Thomas Kolb Łukasz, ha ha, nice pun! Thanks, but I really had to thin them considerably, they looked a bit like clubs from the sprues.
Erik, thank you, yes, isn't that hangar great? So simple, yet so complex looking. You can really go to town superdetailing it, if you want.
Please explain the sprue in liquid cement mix you use for filler.
How do you make the material? Sprue to cement ratio? Any particular cement suggested?
How do you do this and are there any tips you have for using the filler?
Thank you!
10 September 2020, 07:01
Thomas Kolb Lochsa-River, I am using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. I cut up remaining sprues in tiny bits (~5 mm) and chuck them into the cement jar. After about two days, the pieces are fully dissolved. The consistency of the goo should be about that of honey, so you should be able to use the brush pf the cement jar as applicator. Maybe 50-50, but I am not particularly measure it, I just look at the result and adjust accordingly. Too thin, add more sprues. Too thick, add more cement. You don't want it too runny, and you don't want it to form long strings when using it. When applying, I usually brush it on quite generously as the stuff evaporates quite a lot. The bad thing is that it takes a very long time to dry, I would say at least 30-40 hours before you can start sanding it. The good thing is that it really becomes uniform with the plastic, so you can easily carve it, make rivets or panel lines and polish it. I have been using this stuff for quite some time, and it doesnt't shrink or detach.
10 September 2020, 11:55
Gordon Sørensen Great work on the detail painting, Thomas! Everything looks very clean and crisp. And like Lucasz said, the props look top notch!
wilky For filling I find baking soda and Superglue works best.
Actually any powder will do.
I've been using custard powder lately.
I dries quickly and doesn't shrink
11 September 2020, 07:59
Thomas Kolb Wilky, that's an interesting idea! How does it work when you need to sand or scribe?
Thomas Kolb How about that white powder those guys on the street are trying to sell to me? I tried it once, but as I was sanding it, my Spitfire model suddenly turned pink and tangerine and flew out the window. Man, it was beautiful.
11 September 2020, 20:42
Daniel Klink oh another A-model Wrestler... respect Thomas..👍
11 September 2020, 20:44
Lochsa River John Miller at Model Paint Solutions in Seattle, WA, US swears by superglue and talcum powder.
It works well for me
11 September 2020, 21:07
Ben M I've found the superglue / powder dries harder than the plastic around it, making the sanding a bit tough. But in situations where the gap needs filling -and- the joint needs to be very strong, I find it to be the best approach.
11 September 2020, 22:40
Cuajete I heard about the good results Loctite black. I think it has rubber particles so it makes it flexible and sands pretty well so not as hard as normal Loctite.
Great idea to use vinyl masking tape for curves from Tamiya 👍
Thomas Kolb Gloss coat applied and buffed to a nice sheen. I next need to apply that red-white-green jubileum flag decal on the front fuselage before I can continue, because a bunch of details are actually going to be on top of that.
22 September 2020, 21:26
Daniel Klink Wonderful and clean built and paintjob!👍
Amodel should send you gratis kits for lifetime🙂
Thomas Kolb Daniel, thank you, but I am not sure I can take too many Amodel kits in a row... 😉
23 September 2020, 15:23
Thomas Kolb Finally managed to wrestle that large Hungarian flag decal in place - that was one step I was absolutely dreading. I needed to cut out the door opening, but it actually worked quite well. I am pleased that I went for this version (thanks Łukasz!), that splash of color is certainly needed for this big chunk of gray aircraft.
Raphael Bernecole Really nice and interesting !! I have the same model to do in my stash. I will continue to follow your project with interest... 🙂
23 October 2020, 07:13
Thomas Kolb Raphael, thank you! I will try to add as many details of the build process as possible. I recommend that you load up with filler before starting the kit, it certainly needs it.
Thomas Kolb Doing some back-pedalling to fix some issues before I continue... there are some serious fit issues with the ramp assembly, so I have decided to display it closed instead. A pity, but at the same time a relief, I was not too happy about the inside detailing anyway.
19 November 2020, 17:21
Andy Ball so tidy and clean Thomas, it's a pity about the ramp, but am sure that won't detract from the final result!
19 November 2020, 18:25
Łukasz Gliński Nevermind the ramp, it still looks gorgeous 👍
bughunter Impressive super clean work on a rough base 👍 The minions are so cute 😉
15 November 2021, 07:59
Andy Ball The decal really makes it that bit different from the grey Soviet machines
15 November 2021, 10:56
Michael Kohl A-Model? Puh. To brave that. I am particularly impressed by the imaculate surface you achieved. As bughunter said: super clean coming from a rough base.
15 November 2021, 17:08
Casey Beckett WOW - That windscreen fit is FLAWLESS. Excellent work! You've made my decision for me - I am buying one now.
18 November 2021, 02:08
Thomas Kolb Casey, thank you! But no, the fit out of the box is awful. It took me about a week to fill and sand everything to shape using molten styrene, Tamiya White Putty and sanding sticks. Also, I had sanded off all the windows frames as they are not correct. Photos 46, 50 and 52 should give you a hint.
Casey Beckett Oh no ,Thomas -I am aware of the out of the box fit of some Amodel moldings - I was impressed by your WORK to make it look so smooth. And I ordered my An-26 today. So well done, and sorry for the confusion - your work is heartening for these tough but cool kits!
Thomas Kolb
2+
Géza Szekér
Daniel K
Ben M
Andy Ball
Łukasz Gliński
wilky
Alexander Grivonev
Juergen Klinglhuber
Cuajete
Erik De Smet
Lochsa River
Gordon Sørensen
Daniel Klink
Raphael Bernecole
bughunter
Michael Kohl
Casey Beckett