Dan M
Another kit waiting around for a chance to get painted. First time i'm using AK acrylics but I needed some "light stone" color for a british desert AFV and my local hobby store had it only as AK. Have to admit it's just as good as my Vallejo Model Air. I've started some color modulation, so far not very happy with the shadow results, but i'm gonna make up for it with some lights.

Dan M
Went ahead with the color modulation, but this time with less colors than the Priest. Then i decided that I want the two top boxes on the rear painted dark green just to add more variety,
so I proceeded to add lots of panzer putty as I don't trust my airbrush skills that much. Looks funny, almost as if some alien goo is trying to eat it 🙂

Bart Goesaert
nice start...

Dan M
Thank you Bart!

Dan M
Managed to find some time and painted some additional details by hand (fire extinguishers, the rubber on wheels, some tools, periscopes, smoke dischargers and of course the tracks). Yes I know, big mistake gluing the tracks in, but oh well, that's in the past 🙂. Since i'm still looking for a definitive way of painting the tracks on tanks I went with a new method, just painted everything in steel, then the rubber parts with Dark Rubber from Vallejo Panzer Aces. When it's time for the weathering I'm gonna use washes and pigments on the tracks to reduce that heavy steel look.

Ingo F
Hey Dan looks very good. 👍

Dan M
Thanks guys 🙂

Dan M
Added some decals on the back; with this occasion I saw that the lights were not painted and no information about this was in the kit instructions; thanks to some pictures of actual Warriors found online I managed to correct this 🙂.
I also decided to add the plate numbers as well to the decals even though the instructions kept these off the OIF version but it looked too empty without them.

Michael Hickey
She's looking good Dan.

Dan M
Thank you Michael!

Dan M
I've added the antennas from a piece of guitar string, did some washes, streaking, some oil stains and fuel spills and added a few other details (boxes, water cans, etc) that were present in the box. I've also tried to do some sponge chipping (using green as i've figured the harsh conditions in the desert would peel the paint back to the original green in which the Warriors were painted) but i'm not quite happy with it, on margins looks okeyish but on larger surfaces is plain ugly. Need more practice 🙂

Ingo F
Very nice model Dan! 👍

Dan M
Thank you Ingo!

Cortex
How streaking effect was added and what type of materials were used (wash oil/acryl, special streaking solutions, ... etc) ? I want to make great streaking effects like yours : (

Dan M
Hi cortex, after painting (with acrylics) I used enamel products from AK Interactive, more precisely wash for OIF and a wash for DAK vehicles (part of the vehicle with one, another area with the other for more variety). For streaking I used other products from AK, the streaking grime for OIF and for DAK (again I combined both of them). Drew some lines with one, other lines with the other in a random fashion, then blended with a vertical motion using AK odorless thinner. Then I added some oil stains on the wheels, suspension, on the door handle, etc using Vallejo weathering oil stains product. Same for the brownish fuel spill (again one of the Vallejo weathering products, fuel stains).
I'm glad you liked them, it's my first time using enamel products.

Cortex
Thanks a million, I have a Bradley ODS build starting soon so I will need this advice : )

Dan M
Thank you James!

Dan M
@Cortex: you're welcome and I forgot to mention something, after painting and before applying washes, streaks, etc (basically before doing any weathering, especially if involving enamels) it's important to do a coat of varnish on the whole model, glossy or satin (not matte). Glossy is best for washes since it enables them to flow more easily into recesses but it makes the surface somewhat shiny and unreal and it also darkens the base colors which is why I prefer satin on vehicles. I keep the glossy one for airplanes or for areas where I have to put decals on (to reduce silvering). Not sure if you knew all that or not but I thought best to mention it anyway.

Cortex
Yes good part of info is new to me. Thank you again that was a helpful reply.
Since you've mentioned gloss coat; which product you prefer to use ? I used a spray one once and it was heavy and didn't dare to spray more cause I thought it will ruin the paint beneath it. Then I got Vallejo gloss coat and it's good but its remains kept in my airbrush even after thorough and repeated cleaning and that was annoying.

Ingo F
Hey cortex, for my models i am using the Vallejo varnish: 26.650 Gloss and 26.651 Matt. I delute the varnishes with A.MIG 2000 Acrylic Thinner about 50/50. Afterwards i am using the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner 71.199 to get rid of the remaining varnish.

Dan M
Yes, just like Ingo said, use Airbrush Cleaner to get rid of it and don't use the varnishes straight from the bottle, use some thinner on them (somewhere between 50/50 or 70/30 varnish:thinner ratio) as it's better to put several thin coats rather than a single heavy one. You also need to clean it right away as it has a tendency to dry rather quickly if left inside the airbrush.
One other thing. Although it dries rather quickly I will advise you to leave the model to dry for about 24 or even 48h to make sure it's fully cured before adding washes and such. If you can put it inside a box to dry or any other dust-free environment it would be good otherwise dust particles have a tendency to become embedded in the varnish coat while it dries.
Same thing applies for the paints. Acrylics dry fast but before putting the varnish on leave them about 24h to fully cure. This way you ensure you have maximum protection for your paint job.

Cortex
I'm collecting these notes to text doc, very kind of you gentlemen thank you : )