Nigel Chapman
Acura is the Honda Luxury brand in the USA so you would think the kit would have left hand drive. So is the kit Revell USA or Germany?

Christian W
I know Acura well 😉 This kit has LHD only in the box. I think it is Revell USA because of the Acura logos everywhere. With a short peek into the timeline I see the Acura pendant for the US market. The content is the same snap kit as the first issue.
In 1999 Revell updated the kit with new rims and stuff. I don't have this kit.

Nigel Chapman
Thank goodness for the Scalemates timeline!

Jv
Thanks Christian
I learnt something new today

Christian W
I love <3 scalemates that for (not only, but it is a big help / advantage)

Now another "hey, i didn't know"-fact:
Did you know, that the rubber tires are taken out of this Corvette: '85 Corvette (Monogram 2209, 1:24) ?
How can I be that sure? Well: it (the kit number 2209) is pressed on the sprue of the rubber tries.
[img1]

Isn't that crazy? I noticed such funny little thing often.
One example: the 1958 Corvette by Revell. There are parts included out of three different kits by Monogram / Revell.

Christian W
Another funfact: the german kit is scaled 1/25, the US-kit 1/24. What is right then?
I think 1/24 because of the scale of the tires out of the Corvette stash *lol*. Monogram mostly uses 1/24.
I'll sitting my body next to the Tamiya and/or Fujimi kit to get the proof. Those two kits are scaled 1/24. If Revells kit is 1/25, it will be seen. Then one / two / ?? producer is cheating.

...Revell sometimes changed scale on the box. See the Kenworth dump truck. It was available in 1/24 and 1/25. But in fact, there are the same kits in the box. I had them both and compared them. This things making my day 🙂

Nigel Chapman
I guess this is cost cutting to make kits 'affordable'.
Italeri have been using a generic chassis for tractor truck kits and no engine.

Christian W
I added two pictures to compare the dimensions of Revell vs. Tamiya:
[img1]
[img2]
They are nearly the same. Only tiny differences. The wheel house is harder molded, the nose looks harder and the panel lines are not that soft like Tamiya is.
But the dimensions are so the same.

Jv
Yes chistan I have noticed that many kits are the same whed only a few changes like a few parts and decals in many cases only box is changed
No surprises that parts are used in more then one kit
About scales 1/24-1/25
That is new info for me
Interesting info
You do know much about models
I stumbled over Scalemates in search for info
About kits I was interested in buying
Haven't looked back sens
A great community and a world of knowledge
Thanks for sharing

Christian W
This silver was so cool. It looked like a piece of aluminum. But I went fir yellow. I airbrushed it today. The yellow is a mix out of three colors: 12 yellow - 310 Lufthansa yellow (semi gloss) - 390 white pearl . Approximately 30/30/40 %.
After the painting I can't see any metallic effect. Maybe after the clear cote. But first I have to paint the roof black.

Christian W
@Jv ... I have some kits in the stash and had a lot within my model kit career 😉 ... Often I'm stumbling over things which make me think and then I do my research. In the 2000s, Revell changed some kits scale. E.G. the Kenworth Dump truck (Kenworth Dump Truck (Revell 07523, 1:24)) or the small wrecker (Kenworth K-900 Wrecker (Revell 07509, 1:24)). They were around 1995. On the first issues it's written 1/24 in the boxes. When the brought it on the marked again on the early 2000s, they suddenly are 1/25 (Kenworth Dump Truck (Revell 07406, 1:25) and Kenworth W900 Wrecker (Revell 07402, 1:25)). Suspicious. I can tell, all the kits are the same sprues (chassis / cab). Same size, same parts. I had them all in my stash so I compared them. Even the color of the sprues were the same *lol*
But what scale is right? I didn't measured it out. With the right wheelbase you could calculate it. I didn't. So far.

Jv
Interesting Christian
And also some very nice models you have got
My collection is growing to
But you are a few years infront of me lol
I found a small second hand model shop and got 4 sets from him at a very good price
Will be back to get some more from him agen lol
I only got 7 trucks in my stash

Christian W
30 years advantage 😉

Jv
Yes 30 years is alot if experience

Christian W
Black parts are done. Let's let it sit for a week before the clear coat accomplishes the paint job.

Richard Cheals
Outstanding painting process to cover that red plastic, Christian! Looking forward to the next steps. 👏👏

Forgot to say that I found your observations re scales extremely interesting - thanks for that 👍

Christian W
Thank you! I really can't wait to paint the clear coat.

And: you're welcome!

Jv
Love how it's turnd out looks very nice
High on my list now is an airbrush
I am a bit disappointed in my own results
Whed just spray cans
But I am learning lots on the way

Nigel Chapman
Don't knock using cans JV. All my builds have been painted using automotive paint cans.
I have no domestic power in my garage, which is separate to my house, so spray cans are ideal. I've just learned through YouTube/Scalemates how to prep (very important!) and painting technique with a result that I am happy with. Big issue for me is building a paint booth to extract paint and dust particles.
Christian, not a big fan of Yellow cars, but that paint job suits the Acura really well.

Christian W
Thank you, Nigel! I can tell by one hand, how many cars I've painted yellow so far. That is one color, which makes a lot of dust and it is not easy to paint to get a smooth look without stripes or shadows.
On the NSX I decided yellow not only because I like to be different, but also, I own one in scale 1/43 and 1/18 in yellow. So I gave it a try.

Rattle can vs. Airbrush
I'm able of using both to get a propper result. But to be honest: the preparation and cleaning by using Airbrush is definitally more time consuming. And this is what I don't like about so I prefer rattle can. I want to have it "quick and dirty". So a rattle can is my first choice. My results are good enough with both techniques.
But sometimes I can't avoid using Airbrush. In this NSX-case, I wanted to have a "close to the original" color. I didn't look it up on the internet, to get a rattle can with the right color code because I know, that I wouldn't paint any other car in this color. So I mixed it by myself.

Usualy, I paint by rattle can in a color like I'm in the mod for. In the case, that I follow an original car, I buy a rattle can by the correct color code. So I've done with my three Firebirds or further on for model kits for friends (still: built after the original car). There is no doubt to be as near as possible to the original. Mostly the rattle cans are used on other cars in the future. So I don't mind to spend the money.
On my project of the rare Corvette (1984 - 1994 - 1998) and Camaro (1998), I bought each color to be on the good side. Beautiful colors.

The other reason I'm using Airbrush is my "Silver Corvette Collection". I want to be sure, that there is no different in the shape of the color when they sit side by side on the table.

Jv
Thanks guys as you know I'm new and still learning a lot from you guys
So thanks for the great explanations
You guys have
It may also be the cheap spray cans I use
always nice to learn from you guys
I still like to get an airbrush
See were I can go whed it
Learn new things

Jv
I got the Honda one today from tamiya
Last one in the shop
Now I will see if it a Honda or not
Uesing all your good info

Christian W
Sadly I have to write: I'm done with it. It's on hold. After looking an looking on the already painted body, I noticed it every time, what I was afraid of: the red is bleeding through the paint. On the rear end or above the headlights, the color changes to a really bright orange.
I put the body into a bath full of paint remover. After more than a week, the paint is not removed completely. The yellow and black is gone. But the as a base painted silver (to avoid the bleeding) is not gone. It is cracked like leather and sits on the base coat like glue. No chance to get rid of it. I'm not willing to sand all the crap down. Not, because I don't like the model kit anymore, no. It is simply to much work.

So: if I'll get an unpainted body, it will be completed someday. Someday :/

Jv
Sad to hear but the tamiya kit is still available most places
At a very good price
But I guess there is also many other models you like to have

Christian W
I have some of the Tamiya kit in the stash as well as one built. That is not the point. I want to have the Revell kit built because it was already started.

Dominik Weitzer
terrible, sad...paint it red 😉

Scott S
Hello Christian W, I didn't initially see any red bleeding through in the photos, but now that I look really close I do see a slightly redder rear deck and just barely redder area above the headlights. It could be the lighting in your room is reflecting red or representing other colors inaccurately, or the color spectrum of the lighting is not ideal. Or, the top coat may have been slightly thicker in these areas, which makes sense because it could pool there, and it changed the optical properties just enough to shift the color towards red-yellow. It's probably worth doing a test on the topcoat + yellow to see if it changes the yellow base coat color slightly. I don't see how the red could bleed through that much primer and 2 base coats. It could also be a combination of the top coat and lighting.

Martin Oostrom
On the bright side, you've got the perfect basecoat for a derelict car...
I know it hurts Christian, keep up the good stuff!

Spanjaard
i was going to suggest just the same, but Martin was faster. 😉

Ben M
Try dipping the shell in brake fluid for a few hours. Should remove the gunk.

Christian W
Thank you, mates!
I'll try brake fluid and / or drain cleaner. That's what I'm trying in the near future 😉
A crispy car is still a possibility 😄

@Scott S ... I often looked at it but I couldn't get myself satisfied with the outcome. I always saw the imperfect spots on the body like you mentioned. It was no matter of the room or the light I used. I always saw it and that tightened my decision to remove the paint. It hurt somehow.

MS K
It hurts my heart to see the bodyshell bath after a long time.

Fluorescent paints often seep into or bleed into bright colors or decals overlying them even after drying.
Occasionally, a similar problem occurs with colorful clear paint.
In my case, it looks like the color has been eroded for a long time.(motorart.tistory.com/103)

Could it be that the red color used as the background color was mixed with this fluorescent color or clear red color?

Christian W
@MS K ... Thank you for your opinion. The kit was molded in red plastics. So the plastic shines through the paint. It went up after the clear coat was done. All the steps between were without any problem as far as I could see.
I checked out the link you've posted. I never saw such kind of a problem!
I'll see, what other materials will do with the paint still left on the body. The layer were: tan filler, silver acrylic, yellow mixed with white pearl acrylics and clear coat (2K). I use the same materials for years and it is the first time, that the paint got of partly in my paint remover.

Jv
Its definitely something I think lots of us will be interested in learning from thanks for sharing

Christian W
Thank your encouragement. This evening I'll throw it into drain cleaner. Crossing fingers, that I will put out one piece of plastic without any paint on it. With chromed parts it works awesome fast and clean.