F-86D Mirror mirror - WIP
Let's start. This time I try new nano-technology - filling gap with plastic
See how it fits now
And other part with no nano-technologies
Fill in nose with lead shot. "Glue" it in with 2K Novol putty
And put the nose on the place.
I use Cyan Gel to attach the nose and also as a putty
But still you can see gaps on connection line
So I add more putty (this time 1K Sikkens automotive putty)
And sand it away
There will be another layer of primer later to check the result
Next you will see my first attept to paint it in chrome. Here are the steps done: Preshading, blue, paint insiginas with masks. Then 2K clear coat and polishing
Also applied USAF decal letter by letter
And cover with matt clear coat
Then I rub powder Kosutte Gin San. Surface get very mirror, but dark. And I apply Alclad Chrome on top of that.
No decals used on top - all is painted with masks
Breaking door on prototype is grey below insignia. Paint with masks
And from other side
Just found picture after I apply Kosutte Gin San
And after Kosutte I spray AK xtreme Chrome
But then I shared my results on Facebook and one mate said wing insignias has wrong direction. Should be across middle line of the wing, not perpendicular to fuselage
Also USAF font on decal was wrong. He proposed to help with masks and decals. Another thing was that paint was not durable. Chrome was easy to wipe off because it's adhesion to Kosutte was very weak
And and I took a hard decision - repaint!
I basically peal off 2K clear coat from the surface - it was so resistant to solvents that I found pealing-off is only way to remove it
It took about 2 weeks to remove the paint. FInally I apply primer. This time Mr. Surfacer 1500 black
Scratch-build landing light (in front of wheel bay in the nose)
I start repainting with stabilizers. This time I wanted front panels to look lighter and more dull and painted those with Mr Surfacer gray. And another panel is painted with Alclad Gloss Black. It is not glossy hear but...
If you polish Alclad Black, then result is great. Here you see Kosutte applied and then Alclad Chrome... And result is just amazing!
Now apply Alclad Gloss Black on main body.
It looks fine, but not that glossy. Also surface has some imperfections which will be visible
Closer look. Orangle peal, grease - not good
Start sanding with 1000 grit "sponge".
It takes hours to sand down whole body properly
And surface looks matt. But that's Ok
I decided to postpone polishing. And do riveting first
Upper surface on stabilizers used for process test
Then I paint middle section of the wings with Surfacer to get panel effect later.
And... remember one mate promised me masks? I got them now. Quality is perfect
After first painting process I got result like this. It is not 100% perfect, but I will fix it later
This looks better
Note that I paint grey under insignia at this stage as well. I want to minimize amount of work with masks after I paint in chrome
Then I continue riveting process. I use riveter from Zoltan (Hungary).
I use DYMO tape for long straight lines and 3M flexible tape for the rest to guide riveter
One wing is done. It takes time, but result is nice
Continue riveting on fuselage. I use photos of my prototype and pictures of Sabre Dog in 1/32 which has all necessary rivet lines.
After riveting process it's time for polishing. I use Tamiya coarse and finishing compaunds. Look at result
I apply Kosutte Gin San again and then paint with Alclad Chrome in light coats. Looks not too bad
Add some details in front wheel bay
Use mask for panel effect
Always pleasure to remove masks.
Bottom part on my prototype was looking more like dull grey aluminium. Trying to get that look with AK White Aluminium (on black primer it looks like regular aluminium now)
Tail stripe should be red. I decide to use candy paint, just for fun
Paint exhaust with different metallic paints
USAF using masks from my friend (see his page meliusmanu.pl/)
I use dark grey, not black
Result is much better then decal. Every rivet is visible
Paint other elements with masks
Remove masks. Working on chrome need much more care to avoid any traces left from masks
This text is painted with masks too
And number on the tail is painted with masks too. Only emblem inside red stripe is decal
Each time I paint some element is a risk. Need to mask the rest. I found easy way to do this
Note, that I painy yellow before red - this is to get bright warm tone
Result
And mirror effect is still there. Woooh
Now all paint job is done
Ready to apply decals
Working with decals. Decals I got from meliusmanu.pl/ are very high quality, just need to cut around border
This rocket launcher will be well visible and I decided to add some details, rivets and and also drill the holes for rockets. First I "mark" drilling point with a needle and thenstart drilling with 0.3 and go up to 0.8mm
Drilling done
Just another picture will some details
Rivets on wheel bay doors
Paint canopy rim to imitate sealant. Masking was mad this time
Also you can see small square and angle-area where back canopy part mee the front. I paint this with AK Stainless Steel
I scratch-built "holders" for wheel bay door. Original detial was lost and that was good because original looks much different. Also you can see self-made landing light in the nose
Landing gear got 2 cables. One in the back
And another one in the front
The lights on the tip of the wing are painted with metallic and then with transparent red and blue.
Finally I install some small antennas, fuel tanks and added wash on panel lines using aqua paints
Time for accessories. I found "Do not enter" is seen on the picture in museum and made it. Main board has decal from www.meliusmanu.pl on top of primed panel
Cones made from Tamiya 2mm rod and 0.3mm thin plastic.
I use dremel to get cone shape
Cones done
Just a few final pictures
I will probably create another album for full session of final pictures
Hozzászólások
43 19 June 2014, 13:14
Bernhard Schrock
Mirror look.... I'm curious about. Have you chosen the paint for this project Nikolajs? P.s. Many years ago I tried my hand at a racer (Georgia Mae) with Mr metal from Gunze Sangyo. modellversium.de/gal..ustang-hasegawa.html
Mirror look.... I'm curious about. Have you chosen the paint for this project Nikolajs? P.s. Many years ago I tried my hand at a racer (Georgia Mae) with Mr metal from Gunze Sangyo. modellversium.de/gal..ustang-hasegawa.html
22 June 2014, 20:02
Nikolajs Negeriss
Hi my friend!
Good question! 🙂 I am curious myself - that's my challenge. Cause this time it's not a bike and should save all panel lines and rivets. So, the paint coat should be relatively thin. Gunze paints are good and Supermetallic Chrome Plate is certainly a good option.
What I learned from painting "mirror chrome" is that you should have very smooth glossy surface as a base. And then you can basicly have to choose right chrome paint, which will givu you mirror effect and will have good adhesion to the base coat. And then chrome effect should stay after final clear coat layer.. 3 layers in total... before decals/wash... and then another layer. I really should find same nano-technology for that 🙂
Hi my friend!
Good question! 🙂 I am curious myself - that's my challenge. Cause this time it's not a bike and should save all panel lines and rivets. So, the paint coat should be relatively thin. Gunze paints are good and Supermetallic Chrome Plate is certainly a good option.
What I learned from painting "mirror chrome" is that you should have very smooth glossy surface as a base. And then you can basicly have to choose right chrome paint, which will givu you mirror effect and will have good adhesion to the base coat. And then chrome effect should stay after final clear coat layer.. 3 layers in total... before decals/wash... and then another layer. I really should find same nano-technology for that 🙂
23 June 2014, 08:06
Nikolajs Negeriss
And Mustang looks amazing!!! Although I plan to achieve even more "reflective" surface. Which paint was that? Mr. Color 212? Did you use any base coats?
And Mustang looks amazing!!! Although I plan to achieve even more "reflective" surface. Which paint was that? Mr. Color 212? Did you use any base coats?
23 June 2014, 08:07
Bernhard Schrock
Hi Nikolajs, Mr metal stainless steel. It is a buffing product. Polishing with a cloth produced very shiny look. While polishing the surface you need clothes -🙁 and when you ready it is necessary to seal the coat. No base coats, only pure plastic= no problem with dust particles or "orange peel look".
Hi Nikolajs, Mr metal stainless steel. It is a buffing product. Polishing with a cloth produced very shiny look. While polishing the surface you need clothes -🙁 and when you ready it is necessary to seal the coat. No base coats, only pure plastic= no problem with dust particles or "orange peel look".
23 June 2014, 19:59
Edgars Bizūns
Looks good, now I know why you told that there was a lot of filler on the nose section. I guess this will turn out really nice!
Looks good, now I know why you told that there was a lot of filler on the nose section. I guess this will turn out really nice!
8 July 2014, 14:27
John Van Kooten
I'm not sure if this is of use to you guys but there is an instruction video that specifically targets painting bare metal airplanes. I can highly recommend it if you can get it. It's this one:
www.squadron.com/Master-Class-Technique-Briefing-1-Natural-Metal-p/vc1002.htm
The instructor, Floyd Werner, has done several videos (all of which I have) and he's really good. He explains everything very well.
In the case of creating bare metal surfaces he uses Alclad II Aluminum (in various shades). It does require a particular method of setting up layers but it's really looking very good on the finished model! Here's an example from the video. Maybe a bit hard to see in this screen grab but in the video, with moving pictures, it looks amazing and very shiny!
[img1]
I'm not sure if this is of use to you guys but there is an instruction video that specifically targets painting bare metal airplanes. I can highly recommend it if you can get it. It's this one:
www.squadron.com/Master-Class-Technique-Briefing-1-Natural-Metal-p/vc1002.htm
The instructor, Floyd Werner, has done several videos (all of which I have) and he's really good. He explains everything very well.
In the case of creating bare metal surfaces he uses Alclad II Aluminum (in various shades). It does require a particular method of setting up layers but it's really looking very good on the finished model! Here's an example from the video. Maybe a bit hard to see in this screen grab but in the video, with moving pictures, it looks amazing and very shiny!
[img1]
8 July 2014, 16:01
Nikolajs Negeriss
Thank you John, I have seen this one. But thanks - now I know his name 🙂 Alclad2 is my favorite metallic paint. I have played a lot with different paints of this brand after that video - it was really inspiring.
In regards to Alclad Chrome (or Airframe Alluminium) mirror effect there are few pre-conditions. One of them is base paint layer. It should be super glossy. And I can't get it with Alclad Gloss Black. Usually I apply layer of gloss clear coat and polish it well. And second thing is clear coar over mirror surface. It is kind of art to NOT kill mirror effect even with relevant clear coat (water-based is recommended, although best result I got with auto 2K clearcoat called R-M Crystal). So, all in all you get several layers and may loose some rivets and panel lines before doing wash and weathering...
In this terms Mr. Supermetallic could be better. But I will try both on the scratch plastic to see what fits best for my purpose 🙂
Thank you John, I have seen this one. But thanks - now I know his name 🙂 Alclad2 is my favorite metallic paint. I have played a lot with different paints of this brand after that video - it was really inspiring.
In regards to Alclad Chrome (or Airframe Alluminium) mirror effect there are few pre-conditions. One of them is base paint layer. It should be super glossy. And I can't get it with Alclad Gloss Black. Usually I apply layer of gloss clear coat and polish it well. And second thing is clear coar over mirror surface. It is kind of art to NOT kill mirror effect even with relevant clear coat (water-based is recommended, although best result I got with auto 2K clearcoat called R-M Crystal). So, all in all you get several layers and may loose some rivets and panel lines before doing wash and weathering...
In this terms Mr. Supermetallic could be better. But I will try both on the scratch plastic to see what fits best for my purpose 🙂
8 July 2014, 20:31
Nikolajs Negeriss
Thank you Christian. That is how you apply experience in motorbikes into jets 😄
Thank you Christian. That is how you apply experience in motorbikes into jets 😄
10 May 2016, 11:37
Hanno Kleinecke
Highly amazing polished metal effect. The Powder that you mentioned, is it comparable to Uschi van der Rosten`s Metal polishing powders ( uschivdr.com/shoppin..lic-colors-pigments/ )?
It´s interesting that you sprayed Alclad Chrome over it with no issues. I will try that in a future project as well, as it obviously worked very well .
Highly amazing polished metal effect. The Powder that you mentioned, is it comparable to Uschi van der Rosten`s Metal polishing powders ( uschivdr.com/shoppin..lic-colors-pigments/ )?
It´s interesting that you sprayed Alclad Chrome over it with no issues. I will try that in a future project as well, as it obviously worked very well .
10 May 2016, 12:05
Nikolajs Negeriss
My pleasure Hanno, that was my ultimate goal in this project. I never tried Uschi's powder and on the pictures I can't tell thaat result is same good as with Kosutte. I should admit that Kosutte is not on sale and is very hard to find. By you can get very similar powder MGM Magic Powder: Ebay.com Item - MGM Prime Electroplating Powder For Bandai Gundam Model Orphans Anyway, you can try Uschi's powder if you have it. Just prepare surface well to get really glossy mirroring black base. This step is most important 😉 After that most of the powders will give similar results. And the result is a bit too dark. That's why I use Alclad Chrome (or AK xTreme Chrome) on top - just to change a shade.
Thank you Choppa! Never though that metallic finish could be sexy... LOL
My pleasure Hanno, that was my ultimate goal in this project. I never tried Uschi's powder and on the pictures I can't tell thaat result is same good as with Kosutte. I should admit that Kosutte is not on sale and is very hard to find. By you can get very similar powder MGM Magic Powder: Ebay.com Item - MGM Prime Electroplating Powder For Bandai Gundam Model Orphans Anyway, you can try Uschi's powder if you have it. Just prepare surface well to get really glossy mirroring black base. This step is most important 😉 After that most of the powders will give similar results. And the result is a bit too dark. That's why I use Alclad Chrome (or AK xTreme Chrome) on top - just to change a shade.
Thank you Choppa! Never though that metallic finish could be sexy... LOL
11 May 2016, 05:04
Nikolajs Negeriss
😄 One of my friends is building Saab 32 Lancen. His wife had strange association with that. I do not know why, but google for some pics and make you own opinion 🙂
😄 One of my friends is building Saab 32 Lancen. His wife had strange association with that. I do not know why, but google for some pics and make you own opinion 🙂
11 May 2016, 08:34
David R. Meizoso
This is high level craftmanship and a pleasure to watch. Glad it came back so new mates can discover it! Congrats!
This is high level craftmanship and a pleasure to watch. Glad it came back so new mates can discover it! Congrats!
22 August 2023, 20:40
Michael Kohl
loads of work, but amazing result. I was going to ask whether you do not have difficulties masking your paint and I never see someone paint over a pigmented surface, but the effect proves you right. Excellent build.
loads of work, but amazing result. I was going to ask whether you do not have difficulties masking your paint and I never see someone paint over a pigmented surface, but the effect proves you right. Excellent build.
23 August 2023, 17:36
Nikolajs Negeriss
Hi Michael, thank you for kind words.
Yes, I face some problems with masks. First of all, Chrome-painted areas are very sensitive and I tried to minimize stickiness of masks by applying on my hands couple of times.
Second, I use cellophane film to protect large areas around piece of model where I paint with stencil masks. This allows to minimize amount of masking tape used and therefore minimize risk of chrome surface distortion.
Also I had 2 sets of masking stencils from different tape. And I found that one of tapes impact surface too bad. And good one was Oramask 810. And I use it for other projects too.
And of cause I had to be very pedant in preparation of surface for every layer of paint starting from primer till chrome - this was to ensure paint will have enough adhesion and will not peal off when I remove masking tape from surface.
Working with masking stencils is not easy task but it opens a lot of possibilities for creativity.
Good luck to all,
Nik
Hi Michael, thank you for kind words.
Yes, I face some problems with masks. First of all, Chrome-painted areas are very sensitive and I tried to minimize stickiness of masks by applying on my hands couple of times.
Second, I use cellophane film to protect large areas around piece of model where I paint with stencil masks. This allows to minimize amount of masking tape used and therefore minimize risk of chrome surface distortion.
Also I had 2 sets of masking stencils from different tape. And I found that one of tapes impact surface too bad. And good one was Oramask 810. And I use it for other projects too.
And of cause I had to be very pedant in preparation of surface for every layer of paint starting from primer till chrome - this was to ensure paint will have enough adhesion and will not peal off when I remove masking tape from surface.
Working with masking stencils is not easy task but it opens a lot of possibilities for creativity.
Good luck to all,
Nik
25 August 2023, 06:12
Album info
Here I will put the pictures of F-86D build progress