MiG-17F 'Fresco' - Airfix
Box with a super dramatic artwork
Sprue layout - looks quite simple and neat
Some third party extras - photo-etched parts from Eduard, brass pitot tubes and gun barrels from Master Models and painting masks from Eduard.
Third party decals - generic Hungarian insignias and side numbers from HAD Models
Let's start with the jet pipe for a change - make sure to pick the right parts depending on whether or not you want the airbrakes to be displayed open. The parts for the open brakes have the inner air brake details molded on the outside of the jet pipe. Notice the nice burner ring from the PE fret.
Jet pipe added to the fuselage. The air brake details will be visible with the air brakes open - a clever solution by Airfix!
Over to the cockpit. Adding some PE parts to the cockpit sides and the seat before priming. But hey, Mr Airfix, the seat is wrong, this is actually the KK-1 seat for the MiG-15. The MiG-17 had a different ejection seat (KK-2) with a boxy headrest with red firing handles. I will use the kit's seat for now and see if I can find a third party resin seat later.
Cockpit parts primed with UMP Ultimate Primer.
Painted and equipped with color-printed PE parts. The "tub" at the front is supposed to hold 20 grams of weights according to the instructions - now that seems completely impossible, so I will obviously need to find other places to put weights.
Tiny fishing weights superglued in the "tub" just in front of the cockpit and some on the sides - that's about all I could fit in without compromising the fit.
Cockpit carefully fitted in. Make sure you have a perfect alignment or the fuselage halves won't close up without a gap! The top left and right edges of the dashboard needed a slight sanding, but otherwise no problems.
Finally a big bolt is superglued to the back of the cockpit assembly. It is in front of the CoG, so it should help avoiding a tail-sitter. But I won't be sure until everything is assembled, so fingers crossed.
Fuselage halves joined and held together by tape while the cement cures. The hawk-eyed will notice that the (incorrect) seat is missing - a proper resin seat will be added later as it should fit in nicely through the cockpit opening, and will not be in the way while painting the fuselage.
The gun panel around the nose wheel bay and the jet intake ring added to the fuselage. Since this model will have a natural metal surface, I need to make sure that all join lines are perfectly even. As you can see, some Tamiya White Putty is needed to fan out the centerline join. The tiny gap around the dorsal fin was filled with Wamod acrylic putty. I find this stuff perfect for places you cannot or don't want to sand.
The Eduard PE set includes extended flaps - a nice addition, but it is not for the inexperienced. The different parts of the flaps must first be bent in shape using specified angles - this would be almost impossible without a bending jig.
One PE flap done - now for the internal part! For that, the corresponding molded-on flap on the wing needs to be removed (of course the flap in the picture here is for the other wing, the smooth surface goes on the top and the "hole-riddled" part is the inside, but you get it anyway).
Let's remove the molded-on flaps (marked with blue marker).
Following the contour lines, the area is removed with a razor saw - actually not very difficult, but you need to be careful not to slip; thumbs are pretty nice to have.
Internal flap part superglued in place, the flaps themselves will be installed later, as it is a rather delicate assembly.
Wing halves cemented together - I almost forgot to drill the holes for the external fuel tanks first!
The wings need some careful sanding to fit seamlessly to the wing roots, but it can be done so it looks almost just like the rest of the panel lines. That "blob" in the middle of the wing is a grossly oversized gear-down indicator (soldier). In reality is the size of a marker pen, but that is the penalty of 1:72 scale.
I first used superglue to attach the wings to the fuselage to not accidentally fuse the wing join panel line, which is actually quite visible on the real aircraft. I then later let Tamiya Extra Thin cement flow into the join lines to create a strong bond.
And the same for the stabilizers. It's starting to look like a MiG!
Molded-on plastic gun barrels replaced with metal ones from Master Model - definitely worth doing even though it is just a tiny detail. Notice that I needed to use some acrylic filler around the intakes.
Dropped brake flaps installed. To give the flaps the correct 25 degree angle, I used black masking putty to support them while the cement dried, but the whole assembly is extremely delicate for touch and bends easily. I also added the brass pitot tubes and the main landing gears. The nose gear and wheels will be replaced with Eduard resin ones.
I almost missed to add the two teeeeeny tiny actuators for the flaps. Somehow I managed to bend them in shape and attach them too. We'll see how long they will last.
Windshield and canopy opening masked off, so I guess it's time to fire up the primer!
But first the entire model is carefully wiped off with IPA alcohol and a cotton swab to remove anything that might stop the primer from sticking to the plastic. From here on, no more bare hands touching the model!
Primed with UMP Ultimate Primer Black.
As expected, some filling errors were revealed by the shiny primer. Repaired, resanded, repolished and then reprimed.
The gear bay doors are provided as metal parts on the Eduard PE-etched fret. These are to the right, the original plastic parts are on the left. To be honest, I prefer the look of the plastic parts, they look much more 3-dimensional and suit the model better. They just needed some thinning with a sanding stick.
An all black and shiny Fresco waiting for its metal coat.
Time for the metalizer - AKI Xtreme Metal, Polished Aluminium, sprayed on with a H&S Infinity airbrush, 0.2 mm needle, 15 PSI. Five or six thin layers with a few minutes of waiting time between the applications. The blade antenna on the spine that was present on Hungarian MiG's, was not included in the box, so I crafted it from a piece of photo-etch metal.
Well, this is a brand new aircraft. straight from the Soviet factory, so it is supposed to be shiny! But the AKI Polished Aluminum is extremely delicate to touch - even the most careful handling with bare hands will immediately rub off the metal paint, so it definitely needs a protective layer of clear varnish.
All surfaces coated with a layer of AKI clear varnish applied with a paintbrush (Tamiya HF 6mm) to protect the metal paint from fingerprints and scratches. It really does not remove any of the sheen of the metallic surfaces - to be honest I found it even nearly impossible to see where I had applied the varnish and where I had not yet. Oh, and I also added the flat black walkways on the wings.
Decals applied. Next: undercarriage, ejection seat and canopy. Then some subtle weathering before I can call this project finished. Shouldn't take long now!
Hozzászólások
33 10 May 2020, 15:42
Andy Balloh my!, was thinking of this one next, but went for the Trumpeter Tu-128...may join you on the build in the next week....
10 May 2020, 19:05
Palo MCareful with the weights, it does need a bit, otherwise it sits on its tail. There is a barrel for that, just in case, though I managed to lose mine.
10 May 2020, 21:22
Thomas KolbPalo, yes, thanks for the tip! Yes, the barrel to prop up the rear is pretty silly if you ask me, although still better than having the aircraft sit on its tail, nose gear up in the air. I have one or two of those already...
10 May 2020, 21:32
Andy BallIs there any lead-like-weighted putty on the market that can be used to pack in around all these tight spaces?
10 May 2020, 21:39
Thomas KolbAndy, I saw that there is something like that in some online fishing stores, but I haven't tried it myself. It is also quite expensive, in the area of 8-10 EU/GBP for 15 grams.
anglingdirect.co.uk/..-critical-mass-putty
11 May 2020, 05:59
Juergen Klinglhuberthis one works fine - also not cheap but helpful.....valiant-wings.co.uk/..ose-weight-716-p.asp
11 May 2020, 16:53
Bernhard PetheI'm also currently on the MiG-17F. There is still plenty of room for weights under the cockpit.
flugzeugforum.de/thr..eltisch.94895/page-4
11 May 2020, 17:13
Thomas KolbJuergen, thanks a bunch for the tip, I just ordered a package of the Three-Green nose weight putty directly from Uschi - that should do the trick!
11 May 2020, 21:44
Chaz GordonAny weight forward of the main landing gear will help, I use lead tape for golf clubs, the advantage is you can stick it in all kinds of places. One place that would work is inside the wings ahead of the main gear, lots of room for weight in there, assuming the gear can take it.
11 May 2020, 22:38
Thomas KolbChaz, thanks for the tip! I ordered this "nose weight putty" from Uschi van der Rosten and will hopefully get it in a week. I will let you know how it goes.
12 May 2020, 02:59
CuajeteThomas, the cockpit looks so good.
@Chaz Gordon... This is the lead tape for golf clubs?
amazon.es/Sport-Stic..-tenis/dp/B01E8SEWDK
12 May 2020, 19:01
Chaz GordonThat's the stuff, I get it on ebay, a bit of searching gets a good price on it. what I like is you can stick it and form it around the inside of fuselages and any hidden cavity. it cuts easily with scissors so it can be used anywhere there is a couple of mm gap.
12 May 2020, 22:04
Thomas KolbYesterday I "soft-assembled" the model with tape just to see that it is standing properly on its feet, and, well, it does, but it sure as heck needs all the nose weight you can cram in in every tiny nook! I also performed the needed plastic surgery on the wings and built the assembly for the extended photo-etched flaps. Not as difficult as I thought it would be, however, without a proper bending jig it would be more or less impossible.
14 May 2020, 11:05
Thomas Kolb@Andy, the instructions state 20 grams in the nose compartment, but I was unable to fit in that much, my fishing weights have lower density. I didn't want to wait for the Uschi nose weight putty, so instead I added flattened fishing weights to the outer sides of the cockpit, under the cockpit assembly, and also behind the cockpit rear wall. Maybe 25-30 grams altogether? But a lot of it is pretty close to the pivot point.
14 May 2020, 14:58
Thomas KolbWings attached, with some gaps, but nothing too bad. I struggled a bit with the bottom part of the nose with the guns and the way it fits the nose ring - filling and some sanding was required. I am not sure why Airfix engineered it such a strange way, unless it is to have an option to produce the PF version later?
16 May 2020, 19:42
Łukasz GlińskiWho knows? Are you going to take pics of both of your Frescos once this one is completed?
16 May 2020, 19:52
Thomas Kolb@Łukasz, I think the PF version looks cool with its radar nose, so if Airfix ever decides to produce it, I will definitely buy at least two! BTW, the difference between the Mistercraft and the Airfix tooling is enormous - in comparison, the Mistercraft looks like it is carved of soap.
@Ricardo, thank you, please do! I checked in your gallery, wow, you are really skilled!
17 May 2020, 15:40
Łukasz GlińskiI know 😄 that's why I want to see them together 🙂
And remember, the soapy one is the reason you landed here😉
17 May 2020, 19:44
Thomas KolbGot the weight putty in the mail from Uschi today... two small, heavy plastic jars containing some sort of lead powder mixed in oil. Not sure how this thing is supposed to be used, perhaps you can fill a closed up nose cone or something with it? Hm, nah, it's not really what I needed... if you want it, you can have it for free, just let me know, or I will take it to the local recycling station in a few weeks.
25 May 2020, 11:07
Chaz GordonMaybe it hardens when exposed to air? Perhaps fill a small cup shaped part and leave it overnight, see what happens
25 May 2020, 13:07
Thomas Kolb@Chaz, it is possible, although it smells like heavy machine oil, so probably not very volatile. But worth trying I guess. I'll let you know.
25 May 2020, 13:11
Chaz Gordonlooking the stuff up, it almost looks like the oil may be just a shield medium, is there a block of putty under that maybe? or perhaps it needs mixing? the reviews are all short and lack a How to, but IU get the definite impression the "liquid" dries after air exposure
25 May 2020, 13:23
Thomas KolbNo, I tried mixing it but it is really just a fine metal powder mixed with what looks and smells like machine oil. It has a consistency of slush and is very crumbly, so you definitely cannot shape it like putty. You need to use something like a palette knife to scoop up and fill a small container, which you can then possibly cement into the model: but you definitely cannot just attach the stuff to the inner fuselage side of a model for instance (which I was hoping).
25 May 2020, 13:40
Ricardo ReisI usually use Liquid Gravity and it works fine; does it (maybe) dry when left in the open air?
25 May 2020, 13:52
Urban GardiniUse tungsten putty instead. You'll find it at your nearest well sorted sport fishing store.
15 September 2020, 12:24
Slavo HazuchaJoining, the job on the flaps looks very nice - really a good detail addition to the little MiG! 👍
16 September 2020, 13:02
Thomas Kolb@Urban, yes, I think I will give it a try, although it is super expensive stuff...
@Slavo, thank you, yes, I think so too, anything to break up the chimney-pipe (or as the pilots used to say 'труба печи') appearance of the Fresco is probably a good thing! 🙂
16 September 2020, 15:55
Urban GardiniYes, tungsten putty is quite expensive but well worth it in hard cases with extreme tail sitters...
16 September 2020, 16:10
Rene ScheiblichI could fix you up with a teaspoon of tungsten chips, all about 1mm in size. Used them with PVA glue to get the butt of my 262 up. 🙂
16 September 2020, 17:14
Urban GardiniAnother source is to get hold of cemented carbide that is used when they make cutting tools for the metal industry. If you know anyone that works as an CNC operator in the metal industry you could talk with him/her and ask for cutting tool waste. The cutting tools exist in various forms. I've got some here as well as I've been thinking about testing how to safely crack and crush them so I can use the tungsten carbide that they consists of. But first I need to clean the cutting tools from the coolant oil and production grime. One idea is to use an old not very good cast iron mortar that I've got, a couple of cutting tools, cover up the top and use a hammer on the pestle. A bit much work but low cost if it works.
16 September 2020, 17:39
Andy BallUK price is £7.99 for a tin (approx. EUR/USD 8.50) from Angler Direct....doesn't look that dear to me?....
16 September 2020, 18:01
Urban GardiniLast time I bought one it costed 99 SEK here in Sweden but that's 3-4 years ago.
16 September 2020, 18:03
CuajeteThis one is most cheaper that I can find:
es.aliexpress.com/it..02_,searchweb201603_
If not used, will this putty harden over time, even if it is well preserved?
16 September 2020, 19:12
Urban GardiniYes but you can make it softer again with the heat from your hands/fingers kneading the stuff. But it'll take a lot of love...
16 September 2020, 19:34
Thomas KolbAndy & Urban, it costs like 89 SEK (like £7,80) for 20 grams. Thats about enough weight for one Airfix MiG-17.
16 September 2020, 20:20
Chaz GordonThe tungsten putty is £2.86 for 24g on ebay, but Liquid Gravity is £10 for 240g on Amazon, the shot size looks tiny, so virtually no space wastage, but just enough to secure with PVA, CA or Epoxy. Personally, I'd layer it with some cheap liquid CA, then when dried, cap the compartment with Araldite Standard. For larger applications, Lead BB shot is £10 for 500g on Amazon.
16 September 2020, 23:49
Chaz GordonJust one other thought, if 24g of weighting costs £3, a 1p coin Weighs 3.56g, a 1 Euro Cent Coin weighs 2.3g. Generally speaking, the cheapest weight money can buy is Money. I have known a lot of people who just drill out 1p & 2p Coins to use as washers because they are cheaper and better quality than actual washers.
16 September 2020, 23:59
Urban GardiniChaz, it's not the cost that is sought after here but as much weight as possible for a tiny area and Liquid Gravity (which is an excellent product) is inferior to tungsten putty in this case.
17 September 2020, 07:22
Łukasz GlińskiTo be honest, the cheaper option is using the fishing lead and big pliers 🙂 The lead is quite soft - ok, not as a putty, hence the pliers are necessary, the longer the better😉
17 September 2020, 07:52
Thomas KolbŁukasz, yes, flattened fishing weights is what I am doing most of the time. But the Airfix Fresco is surprisingly difficult to weigh down. The instruction suggests 20 grams - that's an awful lot of weights in such a small model! Airfix actually provides a small barrel on the fret to use as support under the back of the fuselage in case you fail. I think I managed it though, let's just hope that the landing gears don't collapse.
17 September 2020, 08:41
Chaz GordonWell, I never expected Tungsten would be so dense. It does seem that unless you splash out on Platinum, or have a particle accelerator in your back yard, it's about as dense as you can get.
19 September 2020, 11:59
Thomas KolbChaz, indeed, I didn't know that, but it is 1.7 times heavier than lead. Actually, "tung sten" means "heavy stone" in Swedish, now that should be a hint.
19 September 2020, 12:07
Urban GardiniThe strange thing though is that even considering that tungsten is indeed a Swedish name and is use for the material all over the world. One exception though is Sweden that insists on calling it wolfram instead...
19 September 2020, 13:15
Thomas KolbI am just wondering, how much Tungsten is it really in the "tungsten putty". I am tempted to buy a set and measure it before using it. I definitely got some tail sitter candidates in the stash I could use it for.
19 September 2020, 15:27
Chaz GordonI found 2mm Tungsten shot for £75/kilo, which works out to £1.50 for 20g. expensive investment, but that would cover a lifetime of pesky tailsitters.
19 September 2020, 23:05
Palo MChaz - that's much cheaper then tungsten putty, I only found that for about 8€/15g
20 September 2020, 06:49
Urban GardiniWell worth it I'd say. Split it with a mate or two and the cost won't be as hefty.
20 September 2020, 09:29
wilkyPure Tungsten is $2500 per kilo.
Apparently most of it comes from a mine in China thus the extortionist price
20 September 2020, 09:55
Rene ScheiblichWell some shady guys use to make fake gold ingots from tungsten as it's very close to the exact same density.
I have some chips from my days working a lathe left, saved them for weighing down tailsitters. Those are quite fine and are fixed into place easily with PVA glue. Most likely not pure tungsten, but heavy enough ???? are you still in need? Could send you some.
Sweden is not the only country calling the stuff wolfram, here in germany it's also called Wolfram????
20 September 2020, 17:14
Thomas KolbRene, thanks a lot mate, you are most kind, but I think I will just stick with my regular lead weighs, no need for you to trouble yourself for me! But again, I really appreciate your kind offer! 🙂
20 September 2020, 17:34
Christian KohlHi Thomas! Looks very nice. Can't wait to see the finish result...!
20 September 2020, 17:49
Slavo HazuchaIt's exactly such details like the gun barrels that make the right scale appearance - especially the 37-mil looks really refined 👍
24 September 2020, 19:38
Thomas KolbSlavo, I agree, these tiny things make a big difference. The pitot tubes are really nice too, a huge improvement from using stuff like stretched sprue or hypodermic needles.
24 September 2020, 19:56
Daniel KlinkGreat progress..
Seems tht the fit is not the best. Much filler needed?
24 September 2020, 20:36
Thomas KolbDaniel, the only poor fit issues so far was around the wing roots. Some tiny amounts filler was also needed to blend in the jet intake parts and the gun pods. The filler around the central seam is just to feather out the join line, so it is not too bad.
25 September 2020, 04:59
Łukasz Gliński@Urban: Can't agree more 😄 except for their Fulcrum pitot😉
@Thomas: that is looking better every day 🙂
25 September 2020, 06:33
Thomas KolbŁukasz, may I ask, what is wrong with the Fulcrum tubes? I was just about to buy it to my upcoming 29's.
25 September 2020, 09:23
Łukasz GlińskiThey are:
- designed before the Trumpy's kit showed up,
- made of 3 way-too-tiny parts 🙁
So you have to fiddle with these tiny winglets and then blend it into the Trupmy's radome. MiniWorld pitots are waaaay better and designed exactly for these kits (single and double seater). They are not easy to find (Ebay only me thinks), but definitely worth it.
[img1]
25 September 2020, 09:38
Thomas KolbAh, thanks mate, I guess you just saved me a lot of headache here! 🙂
25 September 2020, 09:40
Thomas KolbYesterday evening I added the dropped flaps. It is a super delicate assembly, not something you want to touch much. Also pitot tubes, windshield, open air brakes and some more minor details were added. I also ordered new resin wheels and a new nose gear from Eduard, the provided, one-piece nose gear with the molded-on wheel looks a bit toy-like to me.
26 September 2020, 12:01
CuajeteMetal parts looks great. Those barrels, pitot and flaps give it a very realistic plus. I would wish Airfix release a PF version for their Mig-17.
26 September 2020, 18:43
Thomas KolbI sprayed on the black primer this morning, but I became to greedy and ended up spraying too thick and puddling the primer. Not very visible on the photos, but it will become very visible with the metalizer on! Argh, so annoying! Now I can either strip everything down to bare plastic or try to salvage it by using a micromesh cloth and polishing it down like hell.
27 September 2020, 12:29
Andy BallThomas: "We suffer for our art"... bravo on the first stealth Fresco! 😉
27 September 2020, 13:30
Thomas KolbThanks, mates... Actually removing the primer went pretty quickly before it fully dried, with Tamiya Lacquer thinner and a box of cotton swabs. So, now a deep breath and then spray it again, much slower this time. Well, what can I say, you can't hurry love.
@Andy, yes, the MiG actually looks pretty mean in black! But silver it shall be.😉
27 September 2020, 17:50
Thomas KolbReprimed - looks much better this time. So now I am almost ready for the metal paint, but I am still undecided about the surface finish of the Hungarian Fresco F's - if it was clear varnished metal (shiny), or alu paste paint (flat).
30 September 2020, 18:15
Thomas KolbSergei, as I was investigating, I think you are probably right. They were rather new and had not yet been overhauled, during which the matt alu-paste paint was applied. So they were probably factory painted with clear varnish over NM finish.
1 October 2020, 16:58
Łukasz GlińskiAs far as I'm concerned the Warsaw Pact jets were never as shiny as their US counterparts...
1 October 2020, 19:42
Thomas KolbAdded the metalizer coat - not exactly mirror finish, but still showroom shiny. Well, this jet is supposed have rolled out of the aircraft plant at Sokol just two-three months ago!
8 October 2020, 18:15
Slavo Hazuchalooks someone did his homework on preparing an immaculate surface really well! 👍 Now it looks almost cleaner & more perfect than most real MiG´s!!!😉
8 October 2020, 18:39
Thomas KolbGermen & Slavo, thank you! Yes, it was definitely worth spending extra time on the underlying black primer! Somehow I often tend to forget that metalizers are not like ordinary paints, so even the tiniest scratch or cement stain will be visible. This time I really took my time making sure that the primer is as smooth as I possibly can achieve. But now I am afraid to create panel variations and possibly ruin the showroom shine! 🙁
8 October 2020, 19:57
Sergej IBeautiful, shiny blink blink!
I would pin-wash it only in panel lines. Too nice to matte it...
8 October 2020, 20:06
CuajeteMetallized looks great, Thomas!
I share your opinion on the gear bay doors. Plastic ones look better. Maybe I would try to rivet them like Eduard's ... Or not.
19 October 2020, 12:00
SkyhikerDid you use that Gauzy agent on there? I had nothing but trouble with Gauzy. It kept peeling on me. It got to the point where I had to strip the paint and redo everything. I'll never use the stuff again.
28 October 2020, 17:48
Sergej IActually Skywalker, Gauzy or Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear are also my go-to coats for enamel metals.
I never thin them down, spray with medium to minimum pressure and two or three thin coats with 20min in between. Then before I do anything on that surface, I let it dry for a day. Resilliant to tapes, washes, decal setters.
For a perfect gloss I would still choose GX100 thinned 1/3 with Leveling Thinner. Just not over metals, so much MLT eats the thin layer up 🙁
28 October 2020, 21:28
Thomas KolbSkywalker, yes, it is Gauzy, straight out of the bottle, applied with a brush. Just one application. For some reason I cannot seem to manage to get a smooth layer by airbrushing, but by using a good, broad brush and careful technique, I can achieve a silky and completely level finish, without any brush marks. I have never experienced any kind of lifting or peeling or any adverse effects with oil paints, washes or turpenoid.
28 October 2020, 23:24
SkyhikerI found that the Gauzy tends to run. If you let it dry and then try to sand it it peels.
29 October 2020, 13:51
Łukasz Gliński@Sergej: GX100 works with metals, depending on the metal probably. Haven't encountered any problems with Mr.Hobby SMs and Alclads so far.
29 October 2020, 14:40
Thomas KolbI have never tried to sand it, although I have polished it with Tamiya Polishing Compounds a few times, and it worked fine without peeling. On the other hand, the Gauzy Glass Coat (the orange jar) does lift easily with masking tape. It can even be peeled off with a wooden cocktail stick (which can be a good thing if you don't get a smooth layer).
29 October 2020, 14:44
Thomas KolbŁukasz & Sergei, how do you guys manage to get such a mirror finish with the GX-100? Are you applying multiple thin coats with waiting inbetween, or spray it on wet-on-wet?
29 October 2020, 14:48
Łukasz GlińskiI spray generously thick layers of very thinned GX, so first it levels and then most of the thinner evaporates. But this can only be done over safe surface (e.g. enamels are excluded).
29 October 2020, 14:53
Sergej IThomas, same as Lukasz. I thin it at lease 1 part GX, 5 parts MLT. Then apply wet (but not runny) coats, two usually.
I would wait some 10 minutes in between two coats, which is just finishing the full plane and refill on varnish.
If I need a glass-like surface I would "polish" it afterwards with a wet application of clean MLT.
But applying it wet to metals, it will eat them up in my case. And I can't have thick application of metals, otherwise black base has no effect...
I work with AK Extremes mostly, tested also Alclad Stainless Steel with same effect.
Have to check one last Gunze silver chrome...
29 October 2020, 16:35
Thomas KolbThank you both for your great tips! I think my mistake is that I apply the varnish too thick and do not thin nearly enough. For metal surfaces I find that Gauzy or Alclad Gloss works the best, but I have a few upcoming projects that call for a super glossy surface on top of acrylics, so I will give the GX a new test run.
29 October 2020, 16:49
Sergej IThomas I normally open a new GX and pour it whole into a 50 ml dropper bottle, then add MLT until its thin enough, usually I'd fill the whole bottle. Add a steel shaker and good to go for a year or two, I don't need to mess with lid cups and measured thinning...
29 October 2020, 17:55
Album info
I am so curious of this kit that I just couldn't hold back starting it even though I have a few ongoing projects already. I really like the look of these simple and powerful metal tube aircraft!
I intend to build it as an aircraft (number 022), used by the Hungarian Air Force for one year, in 1956, before the Soviet Union repurchased them back.
