[Moderoid] Giant Robo (Job Log)

Washed. 

Using OYUMARU. 

It is to replace the rivet expressed in the shape of a water drop in a circle...
But, the downside of Oyumaru is that it is difficult to duplicate multiple times in one mold.
The right side is the first copy, and the left side is the second and third copies. 

So this time I decided to replicate it using silicone putty (siligum). 

I used uv resin. 

Because I didn't make the mold the right way and roughly pressed it, I got a less stamped part like the marked part.
Anyway, even if I took several copies with one mold, all of them were copied cleanly. 

I need to temporarily assemble the ankle parts to check the location of the duplicated rivets, but I cut the male pins diagonally to make it easier to separate. 

Remove the rivets in problem... 

Trim with files, knives, nippers, sandpaper, etc... 

I also worked on bracelet in the same way. 

The joint parts were attached with plenty of adhesive, and only the bonded lines were removed, and it seems that there is no need for additional painting. (Red Arrow) 

Washing with dark brown and brushed the convex area. 

Now I have to paint it once, so I mixed the blue color as close as possible to the color of the plastic. 

I only painted the rear head because I had to assemble the head together with the face and then deal with the bonded line. 

The muzzle of the waist was blocked, so I pierced it and sanded the parting line, and the marked place was over grinded. I will just pass. 

Since I have to paint while assembling, I painted the parts to be assembled together first. 

I painted the black parts metallic black, but it was too shiny, so I tried gunmetal, but it was brighter than I wanted. 

What I wanted was a heavy cast iron feel, so I decided to paint it black and express the texture with drive rush. 

Each part was assembled and the bonded line was also trimmed. 

The part that looks like a toenail was awkward, so I got rid of it, and cut and attached pla-plate. 

Apply the duplicated rivets. 

Apply the duplicated rivets. 

Apply the duplicated rivets. 

Apply the duplicated rivets. 

The weather has been so cold lately that I couldn't paint, so I decided to trim the doll. (Here is late winter)
I trimmed the bonded line of the hip. 

The clogged part of the shoe heel was shaved off. 

I was curious about the proportions, so I tried to assemble them.
Fantastic body proportions. 

I painted black base layer to make it look like a stain later. 

However, it failed because the shielding power of the custom mixed paint was too good. 

At the end of the exhaust port, GSI's graphite color was painted. 

The inside of the exhaust was painted in 'musou black', similar to 'Vanta Black'. 

The doll parts were base layer with a Vallejo white primer. 

Hey, you'd be in trouble if you forgot us... 

As it turned out, it was a part that should have been in the marked place.
It was painful to disassemble the area that had been re-edited several times because the adhesive line was not well removed. 

However, since it is impossible to assemble without these parts, the only option is to disassemble them... 

Now assemble the bracelet and anklet and remove the adhesive line... 

Then, stick 48 big rivets. 

Masked. 

Gray surfacer. 

IPP red. 

Mask offed and painted GSI smooth clear(matt). 

After darkly coloring the shadow part of the doll's skin...
The dress is expressed so that the flesh color slightly shows through the chest, hips, and lower belly. 

The light skin color was applied to express the contrast of the soft skin.
 

I painted each base color.
The china dress was lightly coated with white pearl. 

Hand brushed.
It took about 6 hours just to hand painting. 

The joints of the hands also need to be painted. 

Decal done.
When attaching the female eye decals according to the mold, the distance between the eyes would be too far, so I ignored the mold and pasted it on the place I liked. 

To finish, I sprayed GSI smooth clear. 

The booster nozzle was empty, so I decided to fill it with black. 

Cut the Hasegawa matte black sheet paper with a circle cutter... 

Applied as left. 

I can't use enamel paint because of the headache. So I did a dry brushing test with water-based paint... but I think can't use this.
I'll try rubbing it with the Tamiya Weathering Master. 

I have never washed it with water-based paint, so I tested it.
On the left, I only tried black wash, and on the right, I tried a few more. 

Tamiya Weathering Master Test.
O.K. It looks like this could be used. 

Now I attached the breast to the skirt and trimmed the adhesive line. 

Masking... 

I painted the customized blue and coated it with GSI smooth clear. 

Assembled the doll while the clear was drying.
The shoes were painted with Tamiya acrylic clear (glossy).
It's not my area of expertise, so I think this is my best quality. 😉 

I assembled a few things for weathering. 

I assembled a few things for weathering. 

The booster was only drive-rushed with Tamiya Weathering Master Gunmetal. 

I washed it while saving streaking with Vallejo 'Wash'. 

I washed it while saving streaking with Vallejo 'Wash'. 

I washed it while saving streaking with Vallejo 'Wash'. 

And, I finished it after adding a little more detail using Tamiya Weathering Master and 'GSI Weathering Liner'.
I thought about chipping, but since it is a very large robot, it would rather reduce the sense of scale, so I omitted it. - Actually, it was annoying 😉 

At the end of each muzzle, the soot was painted with graphite color. 

In the front, the area around the muzzle was painted with soot and weathering was finished. 

Expressing soot around the muzzle and the part where the heat of the booster touches... 

Finally, just assemble it and you're done!
I took a picture of Tamiya adhesive for size comparison. 

Done 

Done.