Grumman Martlet Mk.IV - No. 888 NAS, Fleet Air Arm
Removed the plastic to be replaced with the etched brass...
Side control panel
One of many mistakes... I needed to grind out the moulded controls. This would have been easier if I have done it before gluing the peddles.
I found that Humbrol 80 (Grass Green) was a closer match to the [cockpit] colour of the brass detail.
Finished Cockpit (with mistake number 2, I missed a leaver on the instrument panel).
Finished Cockpit
Finished Cockpit
Finished Cockpit with front bulkhead.
Finished Cockpit with front bulkhead (including mistake number three... the bulkhead from this side should be painted Sky BS210)
The two halves of fuselage with front bulkhead colour rectified.
The Sky over Grass Green has given some more depth to the bulkhead (must remember that for future builds)...
The finished cockpit and front landing gear. The landing gear did take a while to put together and I did have to repaint due to both excess handling and a miss reading of the instructions...
The finished cockpit and front landing gear.
Cockpit and front landing gear attached.
Cockpit and front landing gear assembly attached to the fuselage.
Cockpit and front landing gear assembly attached to the fuselage.
The two halves of fuselage were attached. Due to not being able to lineup the cockpit assembly with the 'little ridge' on the opposite side, there is a little gap between the seam lines that requires filling.
Gaps filled with Mr Surfacer, working through the grits (500-1000-1500), sanding between applications.
Gaps filled with Mr Surfacer, working through the grits (500-1000-1500), sanding between applications.
The engine and housing were attached. The Engine was sprayed Real Colors RC15 (Gun Metal), then washed with Humbrol AV2001 (Black Wash). Finally a light drybrushing of Humbrol 191(Aluminium Chrome). I am not sure it was the exact result I was looking for.
The cone (not sure what this part is called) was sprayed Alclad II ALC-101 (Aluminium), then attached to the engine. Finally the part was washed with Humbrol AV2001 (Black Wash).
The rear wings and tail were attached.
The main wings were attached.
The main wings were attached. However, there is a noticeable gap on the port side (between wing and fuselage) that will need filling.
The gap on this side was quite large and the wing needed to be built up a little at the top end. Therefore I used Vallejo Plastic Putty. This will take 24 hours to cure.
The gap on this side was much smaller. I used Mr Primer Surfacer 1000. This will take 24 hours to cure.
Yet another mistake! I did not colour the inside of the engine housing before gluing. Therefore, I have masked the engine with Vallejo Liquid Mask
The engine housing and ailerons were added, and the canopy and undercarriage were masked.
The exhausts were glued and the windows masked using the Pmask PK72103 masking set.
Before spraying the primer, the model was washed down with a 50/50 mix of IPA and Water.
Two thin cotes of Mr Primer Surfacer (50/50 with Levelling Thinners) were applied to the upper surfaces.
After three light primer cotes (top & bottom) the surface now looks even. However, I did notice a mistake... I should have painted and masked the exhaust before this stage.
To make up for my error, I sprayed the exhausts RealColor Gun Metal (RC15). I was not happy with my airbrush accuracy. I did not want to cove the bit between the exhausts; the idea being that the over spray above will shade the bottom colour.
To make up for my mistake of not painting the inside of the engine housing, I masked off and did the job using the interior colour (Humbrol 80).
Next, I masked off the exhausts with Vallejo Liquid Mask. Then I sprayed Black the along the panel lines for adding a shading effect to the final look.
Top side shaded... (Need to try and control the airbrush better)
The first (light) coat of Mr Color 368 (BS210 Sky) to the underside and wheels
The second (light) coat of Mr Color 368 (BS210 Sky). I might have removed too much of the shading. However, the picture looks worse than with the eye.
Despite cleaning the model with 50/50 water and IPA before spraying, I am still getting 'fluff'. I will attempt to remove this with some 5000 Grit sandpaper. Thinking about it, it might have been caused by the woollen type jumper I was wearing!
Update: The 5000 Grid Sandpaper did the job... 🙂
The tips of the propeller were initially painted with a very light coat of Mr Color 1 (Gloss White). This will help the XtraColor X11 (Trainer Yellow) show through nicely without too much paint. Next will be to mask them off.
I decided to paint the anti-slip mats (at least that is what I think they are called) with Mr Color 2 (Gloss Black) rather than use the decal. I stencilled around the decal with masking tape which will be used to cover this area during the camouflage painting.
I cut masks around the decal, applied it to the aircraft and sprayed with Mr Primer Surfacer (50/50 with Levelling Thinners) to even out the shading where I had over sprayed the black.
The Trainer Yellow tips were masked and the prop was sprayed with Mr Color 2 (Gloss Black).
DISASTER! The paint under the 'shield' of masking tape lifted the primer. I was surprised as I would have thought that cleaning the model with IPA before painting and using a lacquer based paint (which should 'etch' into the plastic) should have good adhesion. Reading around this could have been caused because I removed the tape too quick or that the (Tamiya) tape is old... I need to watch out during the rest of the build.
At least the prop came out OK... I think there may be too much 'yellow tip'... but I can live with it!
Disaster Recovery: I lightly sanded the areas effected, then sprayed with the 50/50 mix of Mr Primer Surfacer and Levelling Thinners. As you can clearly see, this needed more work.
Disaster Recovery: I repeated the light sanding and re-coating of the primer. This time it looked much better. If you look hard, you can still see a faint outline, but I don't think anyone would notice once the camouflage is applied.
Disaster Recovery: I reapplied the shading, ready for the topside camouflage.
D'oh! It happen again 🙁 I think there is an issue with the Primer adhering to the plastic. This was the first time I have used Mr Primer Surfacer. I got some more tape and placed in random parts and carefully pulled it up. Most of the time it pulled the paint off as well.
Therefore, I decided to strip all the paint back and start again. - Topside
Therefore, I decided to strip all the paint back and start again. - Bottom Side
This time I used my trusty Alcad Grey Primer and Microfiller as the base coat. - Topside
This time I used my trusty Alcad Grey Primer and Microfiller as the base coat. - bottom side
Underside shading reapplied...
topside shading reapplied...
Two (light) coat of Mr Color 368 (BS210 Sky) reapplied...
The first part of the two tone camouflage has been applied (Real Colours 295, BS640 - Extra Dark Sea Grey). Mistake! - At this point, I realised that the camouflage mask (Pmask PK72016) expects the Dark Slate Grey to be applied first... Rather then spray the entire aircraft Dark Slate Grey (and potentially lose detail), I decided to cut my own mask with Tamiya Tape.
Second part of the camouflage applied (Real Colors 294, RAF Dark Slate Grey). Unfortunately, my self-made masks did not match to the exact scheme (or layout) that this aircraft had is real life - something I am going to have to live with as only the most eagle eyed Martlet enthusiastic would notice...
History repeating itself... I am not sure why the paint will not stick to this model... However, it means I have another repair job to do!
All patched up and the top of the aircraft has been sprayed with Mr Color 46 - Clear Gloss, ready for the decals.
Time for the decals to be applied using the classic Microscale Mico Set & Mico Sol
The decals seem to be adhering quite nicely...
Canopy and wheels masked and sprayed Real Colors RC294 (Dark Slate Grey) & Mr Color 137 (Tire Black) respectively.
All decals and wheels attached, and first coat of varnish to protect them (Mr Color GX112 Super Clear III).
I have tried a pin wash (the bottom wing in this image). This is the first time I have tried pin washing.
... It's been a journey... but I have finished the model 🙂
The finished Model... side view
The finished Model... back-side view
The finished Model... back-straight view
The finished Model... straight down the front
The finished Model... front-side view
The finished Model... side view
The finished Model... cockpit
The finished Model... cockpit
The finished Model... cockpit closer
The finished Model... bottom view
The finished Model... bottom-side view
The finished Model... bottom-side view
The finished Model... bottom straight on view
The finished Model... bottom-front-side view
The finished Model... bottom-front-side view
The finished Model... bottom-back view
The stand was 3D printed from my own design (base on the Trumpeter Stands that look similar).
Komentáře
1 16 April 2020, 11:55
Harold ClementsThanks Guys... don't expect too much. I am not that good at the finer detail.... 🙂
18 April 2020, 14:08
Łukasz GlińskiNice progress. Agree w/Andy, it's a pleasure to watch and read all the steps. I always promise myself I'll describe my next project this way, but it never happens😉
21 April 2020, 08:52
Harold ClementsThanks for the supporting comments... I am finding it hard to get more than an hour a day to devote to the model... I am not an experienced modeller and I am trying different ideas as I go, so I am not sure how the final model will look... However, the idea is that I enjoy building it and make some friends along the way 🙂
30 April 2020, 08:00
Andy Ballyou're doing it just right!, we all build at different rates, but the point of the journey is to enjoy...
30 April 2020, 08:08
Łukasz GlińskiCan't agree more w/Andy
Remember the words of Al Superczynski: "Build what YOU want, the way YOU want to, and above all, have fun." 🙂
30 April 2020, 08:29
Wim van der LuijtVery recognizable the way you describe your build, for me the process usually goes the same way. Correcting my own mistakes, but still having fun along the way. Finding time is my greatest hurdle, even the lockdown doesn't help much I find. Your Martlet is coming together nicely....looking forward to the final result!
2 May 2020, 08:53
Łukasz GlińskiUnderside looks good, I keep on losing the preshading at this stage 🙂
2 May 2020, 10:06
Harold ClementsYes, as can been seen in my latest update, I think I might have lost too much of the shading as well... I will have to make up for it in post painting...?
3 May 2020, 12:07
Guy RumpGreat progress, you are very tough on yourself Harold, I think it is looking really good. 🙂
4 May 2020, 15:29
Wim van der Luijtman that sucks when the paint lifts with the tape! the prop tips look good to me.....
5 May 2020, 08:26
Łukasz GlińskiSad to see the tape/primer incident. The other cause might have been the thickness of the primer/paint. The lacquers tend to peel off when they're too thick. Fingers crossed for sanding and repainting.
5 May 2020, 11:38
Harold ClementsYes... very frustrating. After it happen, I did some digging around as to the common causes. It could be a multitude of things, including (as Łukasz suggested) paint thickness, age of tape, how long you leave the tape on, how 'impatiently' you removed the tape, cleanliness of the plastic... the list goes on. I will just need to be careful. I was wondering whether it will be worth soaking the tape with the IPA/Water mix before I try and remove it, tosee if it help reduce the stickiness ...?
6 May 2020, 08:59
Wim van der Luijtstick your tape onto another clean(ish) surface a couple of times before applying to your model to reduce the "tack" of the tape
6 May 2020, 09:17
Wim van der LuijtMr Murphy keeps visiting this project it seems, maybe the plastic still has some mold release agent on it, no paint will stick to that. The camo pattern looks good to my eye (but I'm no rivet counter)
12 May 2020, 08:42
Andy BallI love the dialogue, it's a real roller-coaster of a build, and one that most of us are familiar with...a pursuit for perfection....however I always remind myself that you can make up your own story for a piece of paint missing and then re-applied, (it was a repair-job in real life!). Keep going..this is building into something great!
12 May 2020, 08:57
Łukasz GlińskiI have to admit you cope very well with that paint issues, I'd probably put it on hold for some weeks to have myself cooled down a bit😉
12 May 2020, 11:05
Łukasz GlińskiNice progress Harold, but one question as you use Real Colours: are they lacquer based?
20 May 2020, 13:43
Harold ClementsYes and compatible with Mr. Color (mixing and thinning). They are also as nice as Mr Color to handle. I only started to use them as I could not get the colour in Mr. Color.
20 May 2020, 14:31
